Earliest Human Settlements in India

The Bhimbetka Caves, or Bhimbetka Rock Shelters, (also known as ‘Bhim Baithaka’ meaning Bhim’s seat), located at the southern edge of the Vindhyachal Hills, 45 km south of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh, contain 15,000 year old Stone Age rock paintings – the earliest evidences of human life in India.The rock paintings, which are in remarkably good condition even today, take us on a journey into time and tell us about the lifestyle of our ancestors over a period spanning thousands of years.
Mythology

According to mythology, when the five Pandavas were banished from their kingdom, they came and stayed here in these caves. They even built a palace at Lakhajuhar made out of lac.
Bhima used the massive rocks for sitting. This is why the place is also called ‘Bhim Baithaka’.

Discovery

Based on information gathered from local adivasis (tribals), Bhimbetka was first mentioned in Indian archeological records in 1888 as a Buddhist site.
In 1957, Dr. V. S. Wakankar, an archaeologist from Vikram University, Ujjain stumbled upon these rock formations. They were similar to those he had seen in Spain and France.
Archaeological excavations over the next 16 years yielded more than 700 such shelters dating from the Lower Palaeolithic Age to the Early Medieval Age.
The site spread over 10 kms in length and about 3 kms in width has more than 700 rock shelters, of which more than 400 have paintings. But only about a dozen caves are open to tourists.


Rock Art and Paintings

Over thousands of years, the caves evolved into excellent rock-shelters – ideal sites for aboriginal settlements – highly secluded and safe atop the mountains.
The rock shelters and caves of Bhimbetka have a large number of interesting paintings which depict the lives and times of the people who lived in the caves, including depictions of animals, communal dancing and drinking, birth, death and religious rites.Archeological studies have revealed a continuous sequence of Stone Age cultures (from the Lower Palaeolithic to the Medieval), as well as the world’s oldest stone walls and floors.

A broad chronology of the finds has been done, but a detailed chronology is yet to be created.

The paintings have been done mainly in red and white with occasional use of green and yellow.
We get an insight of the life style during those days.The superimposition of paintings shows that the same canvas was used by different people at different periods of time.Archeologists have classified the drawings and paintings under five broad periods.

Period 1 – (Upper Paleolithic): These are linear representations, in green and dark red, of huge figures of animals, such as boar, bison, tigers, rhinoceroses and stick like humans.

Period II – (Mesolithic): These figures are comparatively smaller in size.
The stylised figures show linear decorations on the body.
In addition to animals, there are human figures and hunting scenes, giving a clear picture of the weapons used – barbed spears, pointed sticks, bows and arrows.
There are depictions of birds, animals, drinking, musical instruments, communal dances, pregnant women, mother and child, and men carrying dead.

Period III – (Chalcolithic): Similar to the paintings of Chalcolithic pottery, these paintings reveal that during the period, the cave dwellers of this area were in contact with the agricultural communities of the Malwa plains and exchanged goods with them.

Period IV – (Early Historic):
The figures of this group have a schematic and decorative style and are painted mainly in red, white and rarely green.
There is association of riders, depiction of religious symbols, Tunic-like dresses and scripts of different periods.

Period V – (Medieval): These paintings are geometric, linear and more schematic, but show degeneration and crudeness in their artistic style.
For the first time, we find paintings of the Brahmanical Hindu Gods like Ganesh and Natraja in these rock shelters.

The cave dwellers prepared the pigments they used by combining manganese, haematite, soft red stone, wood coal and plants. They made brushes out of pieces of fibrous plants.It is amazing that the paintings have not faded even after thousands of years.

What to see

The caves vary in sizes. 
Some are very small while some can accommodate 100 people. The cave formations are unique.
One cave resembles the shape of a tortoise and the entrance resembles the mouth of a snake.You must visit the Zoo Rock Cave, which is the most famous of the caves.
These rocks have painting as old as 10,000 B.C. depicting various animals like elephants, antelopes and horses.You must visit Barkhera (7 kms from Bhimbetka).
This is Richest Open Air Stone Age Site in South Asia.
You can see Thousands of Acheulian Tools Scattered in the dense teak forest.
How to Reach

Air

Bhopal (45 Kms from Bhimbetka) is the nearest airport having direct flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.

Rail

Bhopal has a railway station with trains from Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai.

Road Bhimbetka is situated on the Bhopal-Hoshangabad National Highway No. 69.
It is well connected by good roads.

Best Season

July to March.

Recommendation

This is a must see place for everyone.
Nature has carefully preserved these clusters of natural rock shelters within massive outcrops of sandstone, above dense forests.
The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters are unique because the paintings and tools allow us to see the pattern of life over thousands of years.
They show the gradual transformation of man from a cave dweller to agriculturist and trader.
They also graphically depict the evolution of tools.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters bear a significant resemblance to similar rock art sites in other parts of the world –  Kakadu National Park in Australia, the cave paintings of the Bushmen in Kalahari Desert, and the Upper Paleolithic Lascaux cave paintings in France.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters were recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2002.

You can see more details and information at the following site:
http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_rockart_bhimbetka.asp

The Golden City 

Where would you go if you wanted to see sand, desert and sand dunes in India?The best place is Jaisalmer – in the middle of Thar Desert in Rajasthan.JaisalmerThe small town of Jaisalmer, nicknamed “The Golden City” – because this is what the town looks like – stands on a ridge of yellow sandstone on top of the Trikuta Hill.
It is crowned by a fort, which contains the palace buildings and beautiful Jain temples. Even today, a fourth of the population live within the Fort.
Many of the houses and temples are beautifully sculpted. 

History

According to legend, Lord Krishna told Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav clan would build his kingdom on top of Trikuta Hill.

In keeping with this prophesy, Rawal Jaisal, a descendant of Yadav clan, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. 

Deoraj, a famous prince of the family known as ‘Bhati’ family, is considered to be real founder of the Jaisalmer dynasty. He adopted the title of Rawal. Rawal Jaisal, the sixth in succession from Deoraj, founded the fort and city of Jaisalmer in 1156, and moved over to Jaisalmer from the former capital at Lodhruva (situated about 15 kms to the south-east of Jaisalmer).
Jaisalmer, meaning “the Hill Fort of Jaisal”, was named after him.
 The first siege of Jaisalmer took place in 1294 during the reign of Alauddin Khilji.
Alauddin Khilji was angered by Bhatis’ raid on a caravan filled with treasure.
Alauddin Khilji’s army captured and sacked the fort and the city of Jaisalmer.
For quite some time, Jaisalmer lay deserted.We do not know what happened during the next decades.
Next, we find Rawal Sahal Singh, who acknowledged the supremacy
of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan.The major opponents of Jaisalmer rulers were the powerful rulers of Jodhpur and Bikaner.
They used to fight for the possession of forts, waterholes or cattle.Jaisalmer was strategically positioned as a halting point along a traditional trade route used by camel caravans commuting between Indian and Asian markets. The main source of income of Jaisalmer were the levies on the caravans.
However, the importance of Jaisalmer declined when Bombay emerged as a port, and sea trade replaced the traditional land routes.
The partition of India in 1947 led to the closing of all trade routes through the Indo-Pak border.  
But the skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and it became an army supply depot.
Later, the Rajasthan Canal revived the surrounding desert areas.
And the Government built roads and railways, knitting the remote Jaisalmer with the rest of Rajasthan.

What to seeJaisalmer Fort 

From its 250 feet high vantage point on the hill, the Fort stands vigil over the surrounding desert.
Its massive walls follow the contours of the hills.
The Fort has five interconnected palaces with intricate ‘jaali’ screens and beautiful ‘jharokhas’.
Steep cobblestone pathways passing through the four gates lead to the royal palace.
The sharp twists and turns make the fort invincible.

Jain Temples

Inside the fort, there are four Jain temples, dedicated to Rishabdevji Sambhavnathji and Parshvanathji. The Parshvanathji Temple is the oldest and the most beautiful of all.
Human and animal figures are carved on the walls of its sanctum.
The dome or ’shikhar’ is  crowned by an amalak and a water pot containing a lotus flower.

Gyan Bhandar or Library 

The Jain temples have a library containing some of the oldest manuscripts of India. 

Gadsisar Lake

Excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, the Gadsisar is a beautiful rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines.This lake has a beautiful arched gateway.
Today, it is an ideal picnic and boating spot. 

Havelis

There are a number of beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer.

Salim Singh-ki-Haveli - This was once the residence of the Mohta family, ministers of Jaisalmer rulers. 

Patwon-ki-Haveli – This five haveli wonder is the grandest mansion in Jaisalmer.
Its ceilings are supported by exquisitely carved pillars and the balconies are delicately chiselled.

Nathmalji-ki-Haveli -  This was carved by two brothers.
One worked from the right side and the other from the left.
But the entire construction is harmonious.

Places to see around Jaisalmer

Lodurva (16 kms)

The former capital of Jaisalmer rulers is an  important pilgrimage centre  for Jains.
An architectural masterpiece of Lodurava is the ‘Toran’ or ornate arch at the main entrance with its exquisite carvings.
‘Kalpatru’, or the divine tree, is another great attraction.

Sam Sand Dunes (42 kms)

The not to be missed thing to see in Jaisalmer are the sand dunes.
The shifting ripples on the sand dunes, caused by the wind, some as high as 150 feet, constantly create and recreate new designs.
They are the photographer’s delight.Various cultural programs are  organised against the backdrop of these fascinating dunes.
A lot of Hindi films are shot around the sand dunes.
If you are fond of adventure, you can go out on a camel safari – in the desert on camel back. 

Wood Fossil Park (17 kms)

This park, on the Barmer Road, takes  you back to the Jurassic period.
You can see 180 million year old fossilized trees. 

Desert National Park

This 3162 sq. kms. vast Biosphere Reserve lies to the south-west of Jaisalmer. 
This is one of the largest National Parks in India, but very different from the ones we are accustomed to. Here you can see sand dunes.
You can see the Indian Gazelle, Chinkara and a lot of birds.

You can see the rare and endangered Great Indian Bustard in relatively large numbers.
This bird migrates locally in different seasons.
There are a lot of other migratory and resident birds – eagles, harriers, falcons, buzzards, kestrel and vultures. Short-toed Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Spotted Eagles, Laggar Falcons and Kestrels.
You can see the Sand grouse near small ponds or lakes.The best time to visit the wild life is between November and January.However, the three day Desert Festival in February is unique.
You can see and hear folk dancers swing to the enchanting folk music under the full moon.
You can watch the unique turban tying contest and the Mr. Desert contest.

Reaching there

Air

The nearest airport is Jodhpur (285 kms).

Rail

Jaisalmer has a railway station and is connected with Jodhpur by night train.

Road

Jaisalmer is well connected by good roads with all the major cities of India.

Distances

Ahmedabad (626 kms)
Bikaner 325 km Pokaran (112 kms) 
Jaipur (558 kms)
Jodhpur (285 kms Via Pokaran) 
Mumbai (1177 kms)
New Delhi (864 kms)

Recommendation
 
Satyajit Ray, the famous Indian film director, wrote a detective novel based on this fort.
He later made it into the film – Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress).
Jump to: navigation, search Every house in Jaisalmer is exquisitely carved, having filigree work all over.
Most of the houses date back to the 12th to 15th centuries.
And hence, Jaisalmer is also called ‘the Museum city’. Surrounded by desert, sand and sand dunes, Jaisalmer is truly a
different experience.

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

In the first part, I gave an overview of Leh and Ladakh.
And I took the readers on a journey east of Leh – past Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Chemrey, over Changla Pass and on to the beautiful Pangong Lake.
In this second part, I will write about some wonderful places West of Leh.We will visit some of the oldest monasteries; the sangam (confluence) of Indus and Zanskar Rivers; the unique Magnetic Hill; and meet our furry friends – the Yak and Pashmina sheep.

Original Religion of Ladakh

I was curious to know what was the religion of Ladhak before Buddhism.
The original religion of Ladakh (and also Tibet) was Bon founded by Tönpa Shenrab or gShen-rab mi-bo (also known as Buddha Shenrab, Guru Shenrab, Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, Lord Shenrab Miwo and other titles). gShenrab mi-bo is the founder of the Bön religion and occupies a position very similar to that of Śākyamuni in Buddhism.
Like the Buddha Shakyamuni, Tönpa Shenrab was of royal birth.
Tönpa Shenrab left his royal inheritance at the age of 31, to follow the path of enlightenment.
Tönpa Shenrab embraced the life of a renunciate and commenced austerities, spreading the dharma in the land of Zhangzhung near what is believed to be Mount Kailash. But we have no reliable sources to establish his historicity, his dates, his racial origin, his activities, and the authenticity of the enormous number of books attributed either directly to him or believed to be his word.
The latter, the Bonpo say, were written down after his death in much the same way as the Buddhist scriptures were assembled.
No pre-10th century materials are available which could throw light on activities such as his visit to Tibet.

A new wave of Buddhism entered Ladakh when the reformist sect of the Gelugpa created by Tsongkhapa led to the reestablishment of monasteries in the 15th century.
Most of the old shrines of the earlier Bon religion were converted into Buddhist monasteries.

 
Lamayuru Monastery (125 Kms west of Leh)

This is the oldest and most spectacularly set monastery built in the 10th century by Rinchen Zangpo at the request of the King of Ladakh.But Lamayuru has a more historic pre-Buddhist, Bon history, and is one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh.
Its real name is Yungdrung, signifying swastika.

Also known as Tharpa Ling or “Place of Freedom”, the Lamayuru Monastery is considered a sanctuary, even for criminals; and is guarded by an 11-headed, 1000-eyed image of Chenrezi, the Buddha of Compassion.

The Yak and the Pashmina Sheep
In the village below Lamayuru Monastery, we found some Pashmina sheep who give the finest wool.

We also saw the Yak.
Today, no Yak survive in the wild in Ladakh.
All the existing ones are domesticated ones.
I asked the driver how much milk the Yak gives.
He answered the Yak does not give milk.
The reason is the word Yak is used for the male of the species.

Hills of Different ColoursWhen you drive from Leh towards Lamayuru, you cross barren hills.
The colours of the hills are remarkably different.
Snow White. Blues. Pinks and Mauves.

You pass through Orchards of Apricots.

You also travel along the crystal clear Indus River gurgling on its long journey.
 

Nimu – Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers (17 Kms from Leh)

The Zanskar river merges into the Indus at this beautiful and scenic spot.

Magnetic Hill (30 kms from Leh)This is a unique place.
It defies the law of gravity.
A vehicle parked in neutral gear on the metallic road here actually slides up the hill.
The locals told me that some scientists wanted to do some testing but permission was refused.

Lekir Monastery (52 Kms from Leh)

Likir was built more than 500 years ago during the reign of Lachen Gyalpo and in those days, it housed more than 600 monks.
The monks of Likir were the caretakers of Alchi.
The head Lama today is the younger brother of H.H. the Dalai Lama, although he is not in residence.Likir used to house images and Thankas that surpassed those at Alchi.
Many of the old treasures and much of the old structure was destroyed in a fire.
Most of the present buildings date from the 18th century.
The Monastery has a small, but interesting, museum.

Alchi Monastery (70 Kms from Leh)

Alchi Monastery is the only monastery in Ladakh built on flat ground.
The Monastery contains three 3-story high statues of the Bodhisatvas.
One of the largest and most famous of all monasteries, Alchi was built by the great translator Ringchem Zangpo in the 11th century which accounts for the Kashmiri-Hindu influence in the wooden carvings on the doors, ceiling designs and murals..

In the next part – Leh III, I will write about some more interesting places.
 

Shakti Peeth  of  Mahalakshmi and  
the Gateway to Karnataka and Goa       
                                   

Kolhapur is famous for its Mahalakshmi Temple which devout Hindus believe will fulfill all their wishes.
There are plenty of places to see around. And, you can stay in a real lake side palace without making a big hole in your pocket.

Kolhapur

Kolhapur is an ancient city, to the extreme south of Maharashtra, famous for its really spicy food which will make your mouth burn; headwear, footwear, jewellery; religious connections; its association with wrestling and with the film industry.

Kolhapur is the historical capital of the Marathi film industry.
Some legendary film personalities, like V. Shantaram, started their career here.
Raja Harishchandra, the first feature film produced in India in 1913, was conceptualized here.
Kolhapur still hosts several film festivals and provides good location for shooting.
Famous wrestlers are groomed and trained here.
Some of the Maharajahs of Kolhapur have been very good wrestlers.

Kolhapur is also the entrance to Karnataka and Goa.

Mythology

According to mythology, when Goddess Mahalakshmi killed Kolhasur, a demon who was troubling the local people, Kolhasur expressed the desire that the city be named after him.
Mahalakshmi fulfilled his last wish, and named the city after him.

History of Kolhapur

The states of Satara and Kolhapur came into existence in 1707, because of the succession dispute over the Maratha kingship.
Shahu Sambhaji, heir to the Maratha kingdom, captured by the Mughals at the age of nine, was their prisoner at the time of the death of his father Sambhaji (the elder son of Shivaji Maharaj – founder of the Maratha Empire) in 1700.
Maharani Tara Bai proclaimed his cousin Rajaram, as the king under her regency.
In 1707, the Mughals set Shahu Sambhaji free under certain conditions and he returned to claim his inheritance.
He defeated the regent at the Battle of Khed and established himself at Satara, forcing Maharani Tara Bai and her son to retire to Kolhapur.

The British sent expeditions against Kolhapur in 1765 and 1792.
After the collapse of the Maratha confederacy in 1812, Kolhapur entered into treaty with the British.
In the early years of the 19th century, the British again invaded Kolhapur, and for some time even appointed a political officer to temporarily manage the state.
The last ruler of Kolhapur was HH Maharaja Chhatrapati Shahaji II Puar.

Kolhapur was one of the four Marattha States of British India – the other three being Baroda, Gwalior and Indore.

After India attained independence in 1947, Kolhapur ceded to the Dominion of India on 14 August 1947 and merged with Bombay state on 1 March 1949.

The boundaries of the present Kolhapur district approximately correspond with those of former Kolhapur kingdom.

Places to see in and around Kolhapur                                                                                                       
Mahalakshmi Temple                                                                      

This is the must see place.
The puranas have listed 108 sites where Shakti (the goddess of power) is manifest.
Of these, 6 are Shakti Peethas – abode of Shakti, where one can achieve fulfillment of all desires as well as salvation.
Of these six, the Karveer area (the area where Kolhapur is located), is most important.
It is believed that Mahalakshmi and Vishnu reside in this area.
Because of its special significance, Kolhapur is also known as “Dakshin Kashi”.

The temple, built around 700 A.D. during the Chalukyan rule, is mounted on a stone platform.
The image of Mahalakshmi is made of gemstone and weighs about 40 kilograms.

She has four arms and wears a crown.
The crown has an image of Shesh Nag – the serpent of Vishnu.
A stone lion, the vahana of Mahalakshmi, stands behind the statue.

In most Hindu temples, the images face north or east.
But in Kolhapur, Mahalakshmi faces the west (Pashchim).

There are beautiful statues all around the temple.

Jotiba Temple

The Jotiba Temple is situated to the north of Kolhapur deep in the forests, surrounded by mountains and dangerous precipices.
According to mythology, Jotiba helped Mahalakshmi in her fight with the demons.

The original temple was built in 1730 by Navajisaya.
This temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas and is also called Kedarnath of the South.

The Maharaja’s Palace                                                                                            

The present Maharaja’s family lives on the first floor of this magnificent Palace.
This palace, designed by Charles Mant, a British architect, was completed in 1881.
It is a mix of a Victorian railway station and the Addams Family mansion.

The ground floor has been converted into the Shahaji Chhatrapati Museum which contains a large number of memoralia worth seeing – animal trophies, weapons, paintings, etc.

 There is also a small menagerie.                             

Town Hall

The town hall, built by Mant between 1872-76, is a small museum containing pottery and bronze artefacts unearthed during archaeological excavations on nearby Brahmapuri Hill. One of the interesting exhibits is a small bronze statue of the Greek God Poseidon holding a Siva- like trident.

Panhala Hill Station

Panhala is a little visited hill station 18 km northwest of Kolhapur.
The formidable fort on the hilltop has a long and interesting history.

You can also visit the nearby Pawala Caves and a couple of Buddhist cave temples.

Reaching there

Air
Air Deccan has daily flights from Mumbai and Bangalore.

Train
Kolhapur is well connected to Mumbai, Pune, Bangalore and Miraj by rail.

Road (Distances)
Kolhapur to Mumbai – 396 kms.
Kolhapur to Pune – 240 kms.
Kolhapur to Bangalore – 600 kms.
Kolhapur lies on National Highway 4 (NH4) which connects Mumbai to Bangalore.
Mumbai to Kolhapur is about 7 hours drive by road.
The road is very good.

Recommendation

Kolhapur is a nice, cozy place.
Surprisingly, it has one of the highest per capita income in India.
And a large contingent of Mercedes cars.

You can visit the sacred ghats on the Panchganga River or the Lake Rankala, five kms from the railway station.

If you wish to stay in a real palace at an affordable rate, stay at Hotel Shalini Palace, the Maharaja’s old summer palace, by Lake Rankala.
You will never forget your stay.

You can visit Goa and several other places.

Unique Temple of the Formless Shiva

I have visited Chidambaram several times for three reasons.
· To meander through the Mangrove Forests of Pichavaram to the beach beyond.
· To visit, attend or give lectures at the Annamalai University.
· And to visit the Chidambaram Temple.

Meaning of the word Chidambaram

The word Chidambaram is derived from the two words ‘Chit’ meaning ‘consciousness’ and ‘ambaram’ meaning ‘sky’ (akaas) and signifies the sky of consciousness, which is the ultimate state one should attempt to attain.According to another version, the word Chidambaram is derived from Chitrambalam which is derived from two words ‘Chit’ and ‘ambalam’ meaning Stage for performing arts.

The Deity

Chidambaram Temple is unique because the main deity which is worshipped there is the Akash Linga or the formless form of Lord Shiva. Here, Lord Shiva is worshipped in the form of ether (one of the five forms of matter) which has no form.As you can see on the left side of the photograph, there is no deity at all.The wall is covered with leaves of gold foil strung on strings. (Of course, there are a lot of other deities).

The Chidambaram Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of Nataraja – the Cosmic Dancer.The beautiful image of Nataraja is extremely popular amongst artists.

History

We do not know much about the past of Chidambaram.But worship in this temple has continued uninterrupted since time immemorial.The Temple was definitely in existence in the 6th century A.D.Successive generations of the Chola, the Pallava and the Vijayanagar kings patronised the temple.The Chola King Aditya 1 started guilding a portion of the roof of the temple with gold.But the work was completed by his son.Mythology

A group of ‘rishis’ (saints) lived in the Thillai forests. They believed in magic and believed that even God could be controlled by rituals and ‘mantras’ or magical words.

Once, Lord Shiva was strolling through the Thillai forests in the form of ‘Pitchandanar’, a nude mendicant asking for alms.He had extraordinary beauty and radiance.He was followed by his consort. The wives of the rishis were enamoured by the handsome mendicant and his consort.

On seeing this, the rishis became angry and sent scores of serpents by performing magical rituals. Lord Shiva lifted the serpents and donned them as ornaments on his matted locks, neck and waist.

The enraged rishis sent a fierce tiger. Lord Shiva skinned it and tied its skin around his waist like a piece of garment. Still more infuriated, the rishis sent a powerful demon ‘Muyalakan’. Lord Shiva stepped on the demon’s back, immobilized him and performed the Ánanda thaandava (the dance of bliss or happiness).Then he discloses his true form. Only then, the rishis realized that Lord Shiva was beyond magic and rituals and surrendered to him.Govindaraja Shrine

The Chidambaram Temple complex also has a shrine of Govindarajaperumal (form of Lord Vishnu) and his consort Pundareegavalli Thaayar (form of Laxmi). It is rare to have shrines of both Shiva and Vishnu in the same temple.

Temple car

The Chidambaram Temple car is one of the most beautiful of temple cars in Tamil Nadu. This car is used to carry the statue of Lord Nataraja around the town twice a year.

The Gopurams

The temple has 9 gateways.Four of these have towering ‘gopurams’ or pagodas each with 7 levels in the East, South, West and North. The eastern gopuram has sculptures depicting all the 108 postures (karnams) of Bharat Natyam – an Indian form of dance.

Reaching there

Chidambaram is 240 km south of Chennai and about an hour’s drive from Pondicherry.There are plenty of trains from Chennai.The road is also very good.
The coast is about 11 kms from Chidambaram.

Recommendation

The temple complex spreading over 40 acres is full of exquisite statues.There is the Shivganga, the traditional tank.Chidambaram is also worshipped as the temple of Nataraj – the Cosmic Dancer.There is an annual dance festival.The top most Indian dancers deem it a privilege and honour to perform here.

Nataraj, the image of the Lord Shiva in the dancing pose has been copied all over the world.

All the major temples in Tamil Nadu are administered by the Government. Chidambaram is the sole exception.The huge temple complex looks like an undefeatable fort and has been used as such.

You can visit the Annamalai University, which pioneered the concept of distance education in India.
You can also visit the Pichavaram Mangrove Forests.

The western most of Adi Shankaracharya’s Four Dhams

Plato first mentioned ‘Atlantis’ in his dialogues Timaeus and Critias writtenin 360 B.C.
For unknown reasons, Plato never completed Critias.
According to Plato, “Atlantis, lying “beyond the pillars of Heracles”, was a naval power that conquered many parts of Western Europe and Africa 9,000 years before the time of Solon, or approximately 9,500 B.C.
After a failed attempt to invade Athens, Atlantis sank into the ocean “in a single day and night of misfortune”.Scientists and researchers agree that there was no such island as Atlantis.
Atlantis was a piece of sheer imagination.
But the ancient Dwarka has far too many similarities to the imaginary Atlantis.
This cannot be pure coincidence.Dwarka is about 4000 years old.
Plato wrote about Atlantis only around 360 B.C., that is, much later.
I think the only plausible explanation for the striking similarities is that Plato heard about Dwarka and based his imaginary Atlantis on Dwarka.

Dwarka

The present day Dwarka is a city in Gujarat state in Western India.
The name Dwarka has come from the Sanskrit word “Dwar” meaning door.
Once upon a time, if you were coming from the West, Dwarka was the gate way to India.
Today, Hindus regard it as a gateway to Heaven.The legendary city of Dwarka was the dwelling place of Lord Krishna.
It is believed that due to damage and destruction by the sea, Dwarka submerged under the sea six times; and the modern day Dwarka is the seventh city to be built in the area. The Dwarkadhish Temple

The word Dwarkadhish comes from Dwarka and Dhish meaning Lord of Dwarka.
The temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna.
The city is believed to have been built by Vishwakarma, the celestial architect.
And the ancient temple was built by Sambha, the grandson of Lord Krishna.The present temple built around the 16th century has a five storey tower.
It is made of limestone and sand.
The structure of the temple is quite complicated.
A 24 metres (84 ft.) long, multicolored flag, decorated with the symbols of the sun and moon, is hoisted on the temple tower every day.
It majestically flitters in the air welcoming the pilgrims. The temple has two gateways:
· Swarg Dwar (Door to Heaven), through which pilgrims enter, and
· Moksha Dwar (Door to Salvation), through which the pilgrims exit.
From the temple, one can see the sangam (confluence) of Gomati River and the Arabian Sea.

World Famous Ratha Yatra

Jagannath Puri, or simply Puri, is one of Adi Shankaracharya’s Char Dhams (or Four Places of Pilgrimage) located in the four corners of India. The other three are: Badrinath in the North (Himalayas); Dwarka in the West; and Rameshwaram in the South.
Badrinath is located amidst the snowy peaks of the Himalayas. The other three are located on the shores of the seas around India.

Jagannath Puri is world famous for its unique Ratha Yatra (Chariot Procession).

Ratha Yatras, on a smaller scale, are simultaneously organised in several parts of India and even abroad.Fairs and melas are organised during the nine day festivities.In Kolkata (Calcutta), the fairs attract shops selling plant and pets.

When I was small, I loved to go to these fairs and purchase a few plants and pets.As a result, I have kept such unconventional pets as lizards, scorpions, snakes, python, deer and peacocks.And all this was possible only because my parents never objected or protested.I don’t remember ever being reprimanded for my pets and plants.They heroically suffered the less than normal whimsical fancies of their little son.

Origin of the Word Jagannath

The word Jagannath comes from two Sanskrit words Jagat (meaning universe) and Nath (meaning master).Jagannath, meaning Master of the Universe, is another name for Lord Krishna.The most famous and oldest Jagannath temple in India is in Puri, Orissa.Because of this temple, Puri is also known as Jagannath Puri.

Mythology

There are two mythological stories relating to the deity.

Lord Krishna appeared to his great devotee, King Indradyumna and ordered him to get his deity carved out of a log he would find washed out on the sea shore.King Indradyumna duly recovered the log and found a mysterious old Brahmin carpenter willing to carve the deity.The carpenter insisted that under no circumstance, he should be disturbed while he was carving the deity.The king anxiously waited outside his room.

When all sound stopped, King Indradyumna could not restrain himself any longer.He opened the door and entered the room.He found the deity half-finished and the carpenter gone.King Indradyumna was very upset because the deity had no arms and legs.

Ultimately, Narada Muni appeared and explained that the carpenter was Vishvakarma, the heavenly sculptor of the Gods; and the form of Lord Krishna, the king saw, was one of the forms of Lord Krishna.

According to the second story, the gopis (maids) were talking about the pranks of Krishna, and about their love for him.The gopis had instructed Subhadra (Krishna’s sister) to keep watch and warn them if Krishna came.But after some time, Subhadra became completely engrossed in the conversation.She did not notice Krishna and his brother Balaram approaching.The two brothers listened to the gopis’ talk.Their hairs stood on end, their arms retracted, their eyes grew larger and larger, and they smiled broadly in joy.That is why Jagannath, Balaram and Subhadra look the way they do.

The Temple of Lord Jagannath

There is some disagreement amongst experts about the exact period of construction of the present temple. Construction of the present temple was started in the 12th century A.D. by King Ananta Burman Chodaganga Deva, founder of the Ganga dynasty in Orissa.But he could not complete it during his lifetime.The construction was completed by his successor Ananga Bhima Deva III.

The temple is built in the Kalinga style of architecture.It consists of a tall shikhara (dome) housing the sanctum sanctorum (garba griha) where the deity is placed.A pillar of fossilized wood is used for placing lamps as offering.Singhadwara (lion gate), guarded by two guardian deities, Jaya and Vijayais, is the main gate to the temple.A memorial column, brought here by the Raja of Khurda from the Sun Temple of Konarak, known as Aruna Stambha, faces the main gate.The three deities – Jagannath, Balabhadra (Balaram) and Subhadra are worshipped inside the temple.

Only Hindus are allowed inside the temple.Even Indira Gandhi was not allowed to enter the temple.More recently, a Thai princess was not allowed to enter the temple.
But once a year, during the rainy season, usually in June or July, the deities are brought out in one of the most clourful processions any where in the world.

Ratha Yatra

This festival is known as Ratha Yatra (Chariot Procession).The three deities – Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra are taken out on three separate richly decorated chariots, resembling temple structures, through the streets of Puri so that everyone can see them.The largest chariot is that of Jagannath – 45 feet high and 35 feet square.It is supported on 16 wheels with a diameter of 7 feet.New chariots are built every year.The Rathas (Chariots) are pulled by the millions of pilgrims who come to attend the festivities.It is considered a privilege to pull the Ratha.The King of Puri takes part in the procession.He sweeps the path in front of Jagannath’s chariot.

The Ratha Yatra commemorates Lord Krishna’s return to his home in Vrindavan after killing Kansa.Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra (Balaram) and Subhadra are taken to their aunt’s temple (Gundicha Mandir) – a distance of 2 km from the temple.The deity remain on their chariots for the night.In the morning, they are installed in the Gundicha Mandir.They remain there for seven days.On the ninth day, they are placed back on their chariots and return to their temple.By this time, most of the pilgrims would have gone back.Labourers have to be hired to pull the Rathas.

What to see

Puri is an important town of Orissa.It is famous for the Jagannath temple.
Its sprawling wide beaches, fishing farms and the superb resorts make Puri a major holiday destination of Eastern India.

Recommendation

Visit the exotic sea beaches.Swim in the sea.Watch the fishermen catch their fish.

Puri belongs to the Golden Triangle Circuit of Orissa covering Bhubaneswar, Konarak and Gopalpur-on-Sea.You can visit these places as well.
Incidentally, the English word ‘juggernaut’ owes its origin to these huge chariots.

The World Heritage Site nearest to Mumbai

The Elephanta Caves contain the most striking collection of rock-art statues, sculptures and reliefs panels in India.
They contain the most exquisite works of art skillfully hewn out of basaltic mountains.

They are comparable to the works of Ellora.
It is quite possible that the Elephanta and Ellora caves were built by the same artists.

 History


We have not been able to determine the precise period of construction.

There is mention of the Elephanta Caves in the Aihole (Karnataka) inscriptions of King Pulkesin II of Chalukya dynasty.

In the inscriptions, Elephanta Island has been described as Puri.
Later, the island came to be known as Gharapuri – the Place of Caves.

Some historians say that the great warrior King Pulkesin II raised the shrine to celebrate his victory.
Other historians suggest that these caves were built much earlier – in the 6th century A.D. – by the Kalchuri King Krishnaraja.
But we do know that during different periods of time, different dynasties ruled over this little island.

The Konkan-Mauryas, Trikutakas, Chalukyas of Badami, Silaharas, Rashtrakutas, Kalyani Chalukyas, Yadavas of Deogiri, Muslim rulers of Ahmedabad and the Portuguese.
The Marathas also ruled over this island. From them, the island passed over to the British.

When the Portuguese came, they found a large monolithic stone elephant at the place where they landed so they named the island Ilha do Elephanta, island of the elephant, or Elephanta Island.
The elephant statue collapsed in 1814.

The British removed it to the Victoria Gardens (Mumbai’s zoo – now renamed Jijamata Garden) and reassembled it there.
Even today, the monolith stands guard at the entrance of the zoo.

The Portuguese also found a stone horse.
But we do not know what happened to it.
It has simply vanished.

The Portuguese built a fort on the island with a watch tower.
And they used the caves for target practice, damaging most of the beautiful statues – intentionally, or due to sheer rashlessness, we do not know.

The Magnificent Caves

A flight of about a hundred steps, from the ferry landing, take you to the two groups of caves. Towards the east, Stupa Hill (named because of a small brick Buddhist monument on the top) contains two caves, one of which is unfinished, and several water cisterns.

Towards the west is the larger group of five rock-cut caves containing Hindu shrines.
The main cave is famous for its carvings of Shiva, in various forms,
performing different actions.
The cave consists of a square mandapa whose sides measure 27 metres each.
The interior is divided into smaller areas by rows of pillars, columns, supports and arches.

The whole structure, meticulously carved out of basaltic rocks, closely resembles a cemented stone building.

At the entrance to the caves is the 20 feet high Trimurti (three faced statue), the world famous trinity of Elephanta – depicting Lord Brahma the Creator, Lord Vishnu the Preserver and Lord Shiva the Destroyer.
In a chapel on the right of the entrance is a huge Shiva Linga (the phallic form of Lord Shiva). The chapel has four doors, each guarded by colossal figures of dwarapala, or temple guards.

There are 15 beautiful relief panels depicting – Ardha Nari Ishwara (Lord Shiva in half male and half female form), Shiva receiving the waters of the Ganges, marriage of Shiva to Parvati, Shiva killing the devil Andhaka, etc.

The Elephanta Festival

The Elephanta Festival is organised on Elephanta Island in February every year.
Renowned dancers and musicians perform outside the Caves, under the open star-studded sky.
This is an event eagerly awaited by lovers of art and culture.

Scenic Beauty

The place is very beautiful.
You can walk around the island. You can climb the hills.
There is also the Cannon Hill with a rusty canon which was used by the Portuguese to drive off pirates.

Reaching there

Elephanta Caves are located on Elephanta Island – a small island (7 square kilometers in area) – 7 kms. off the shore of Mumbai.
You can reach the Island only by boat (11 kms).
The journey is enjoyable.

There are regular ferry services from the Gateway of India to the Elephanta Island and back. Boats usually leave every 10 or 15 minutes from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.
You can even hire your own boat.
During the monsoons, the sea becomes very rough and the journey dangerous.
Ordinary boat services are usually suspended.

Accomodation

There is no place for overnight stay on the island.
So you have to go in the morning and return back at night.

Recommendation

UNESCO has included Elephanta Caves in its World Heritage Site in 1987.
If you visit Mumbai, this is one place you should not miss.
I am sure you will feel cosmic vibrations in the caves.

Oldest living City in the World

Varanasi (also called Benares) is the oldest living city in the world.
I lived and worked in Varanasi for two years, but that was over 25 years ago.

After that, I have visited Varanasi on and off.

Varanasi has changed, as all modern cities have, for the worse.
In those days, we lived in a small apartment, close to Dasashwamedh Ghat, the most popular ghat (bank) of the river Ganges.

We used to drop our two sons at the bus stop for their school bus to pick them up, walk down to the Ganges river every morning, stroll along the ghats (all the ghats are connected to each other) and meander through the narrow lanes bordering the river.

The morning walks used be really fascinating.

We would pass small shops selling all kinds of colourful merchandise.

Bulls sitting or standing in the narrow lanes completing blocking the way.

But they neither disturbed any one nor felt the least disturbed when any one pulled them or pushed them to one side to pass through.

Lots of temples, pundits (priests), devotees, pilgrims, tourists and mere idlers like us.
The most fascinating thing about Varanasi was that no one seemed to be in a hurry.

Everyone had plenty of time to stand and stare and enjoy life.

Even many of those who had to go to office, ritually went to the river every morning, did some exercises, had an oil massage, took a dip in the holy river and visited one of the numerous temples.

So deep was this practice imbibed in many, that if they were in Varanasi, it was impossible to wean them away from this morning ritual.

For them, this was the most essential part of life.
Once we had a very strange experience.

My wife fell sick for quite a few days.

We could not go down to the river.

Then a strange thing happened.

It suddenly started raining.

And the river started swelling.

The area started getting flooded.

The river crossed its banks and came right up to the place where we stayed.

For some time, we sat with our feet immersed in the water.

After that, the water gradually receded.

This could be pure coincidence.

But someone had predicted that since we were not able to go to the river, the river would come to us.
History

There is no doubt that Varanasi is a very ancient town. It is much older than Rome.Old Rome has gone down the pages of history.

But Varanasi has not only survived, but prospered.
According to mythology, Varanasi was created by Lord Shiva.

We find mention of Varanasi in the epic Mahabharata and in our ancient scripture Skanda Purana.
Buddha arrived in Sarnath on the outskirts of Varanasi in 500 BC.

Even then it was a prosperous city.
The original name of Varanasi was Kashi from the word ‘Kasha’ meaning bright.

The present name is a combination of two words – Varuna and Assi, the two rivers on the north and south of Varanasi.
Even now, many Hindus believe that if they die in Varanasi, they will reach Heaven.

There are a number of old homes whether the aged come to live and spend their last days.

Culture
Varanasi has given the world its unique style of classical Hindustani music and has produced such eminent poets, writers and musicians as Kabir, Ravi Das, Munshi Premchand, Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Ram Chandra Shukla, Pandit Ravi Shankar, Hariprasad Chaurasia and Ustad Bismillah Khan.
Tulsidas wrote his Ramcharitmanas here.

Gautam Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath.
What to see
Temples
Varanasi is a city of temples.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple, the shrine of Jyotirlinga, is the most sacred shrine of Lord Shiva in India.

The original temple was destroyed by Emperor Aurangzeb who built a mosque in its place.

The present temple was rebuilt near the mosque in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore.

In 1839, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the ruler of Punjab, donated gold to guilt the two domes of the temple with gold.
The Ghats

There are several interconnected ghats along the river.

Visit them in the morning or evening.

You will sense the fervour of the place.
Gyan Vapi Mosque

This mosque was constructed in the 17th century on the old temple by Emperor Aurangazeb.
Banaras Hindu University

The sprawling Banaras Hindu University is a great centre of higher education.

It is the largest residential university in India and the only university with a Hindu temple inside.

Man Mandir
The old palace of the Maharaja of Jaipur with a astronomical observatory.
Sarnath (10 kms from Varanasi)

Buddha gave his first sermon here.

The 110 ft. tall Damekh Stupa marks the place where Buddha preached his first sermon.

Later, Mauryan Emperor Ashoka erected magnificent stupas and other buildings and the famous stone pillar.

This place is visited by Buddhists from all over the world.
Reaching there
Air

Varanasi has an airport with direct flights from New Delhi, Kolkatta, Mumbai and other places.
Rail

Varanasi is an important railway station.

The city is linked by trains with all metros and major cities across the country – New Delhi (760 Kms.), Mumbai (1509 Kms.), Kolkatta (735 Kms.), Chennai (1970 Kms.), Lucknow (286 Kms.).

Road

Varanasi is connected with all the major cities by good motorable, all-weather roads.
Best Season
Varanasi is hot in summer.

The best time to visit Varanasi is between September and November because Varanasi celebrates a lot of festivals during this period.

Recommendation

Visit the oldest living city in the world.

Perhaps you will share the same feeling which brought Gautam Buddha to this place.

Varanasi is famous for its silk zaree saris (silk saree embroidered with pure gold thread) and woollen carpets.

But purchase from a respectable shop.

Varanasi is equally famous for its cheats.

the Gateway to Manipal University and Dharamstala

Because of the similarity of names, many people confuse Mangalore with Bangalore.Mangalore is an altogether different city – about 357 kms from Bangalore.Recently, I received an invitation to visit Mangalore.

I literally jumped up…….. because for some time past, I had actually been looking for an occasion, or rather an excuse,to visit Mangalore.I wanted to visit Mangalore for two purposes:
· To re-visit Manipal University(I have visited it earlier, too), conceptualized by Dr. T M A Pai, who ushered into India the era of private, self financing, paid education, attracting a large number of overseas students; and
· to see one of the most exclusive resorts in India in its final stages of construction.Introduction to Mangalore

In Mangalore, I purchased the book ‘Beware Falling Coconuts’ written by Adam Clapham.

Claphan worked as a TV producer with the BBC for more than three decades.

He spent most of his working life in India – making documentaries for the BBC.

In one of the chapters of this book, he has described his search for a good place to settle down after he had retired from the BBC.

He chose India, he explains why, and finally landed up in Mangalore where he now lives in a nice spacious bungalow.

Mangalore has its own rustic charm.

Even today, there are plenty of old style tile-roofed buildings (called Mangalorean tiles) surrounded by coconut groves and banana plantations.

In the distance, you can see fishing boats outlined against the skyline as the fishermen draw in their catch.

Mangalore is also the gate way to Udipi, where Manipal University is located, and to Dharamstala – another fascinating place.

These are the two places you must visit.

History

Mangalore was named after a local Hindu deity Mangaladevi.

According to local legend, Matsyendranath, an important protagonist of the Nath cult, arrived at Mangalore with Premaladevi, the princess of Kerala.

Matsyendranath converted the princess to his cult and rechristened her Mangaladevi.

But Mangaladevi died after a brief illness and the Mangaladevi Temple was constructed at Bolar in her name.

The temple was renovated by the Alupa king, Kundaverma Alupendra II, in 968 A.D.

Mangalore has a long and chequered history.

There are many historical references relating to the city.

Even a thousand years back, Mangalore was a flourishing port and trading centre.

Location
Mangalore is surrounded by rivers on three sides.

To the south is the Netravati River.

To the west, and curving sharply inwards towards the north, is the Gurupur River.

To the west, the Gurupur River is followed by a sand bank, followed by the Arabian Sea.

The National Highway No. 17 runs through the district for more than 95 kms – almost parallel to the sea.

The distance between the highway and the sea is never more than a few kilometers.

Mangalore has several beautiful palm fringed beaches and is surrounded by lush green fields and dense forests.
Places to see

Mangaladevi Temple

The Mangaladevi Temple, situated about 3 kms from the main city, is a major place of attraction.

A colourful festival takes place here during the Durga Puja (October).

Sultans Battery

The Sultans Battery is situated in Boloor – 4 kms away from Mangalore City.

It was built in black stone by Tippu Sultan to prevent battleships from entering the Gurupur river.

The surviving portion of the fort is known as Tippu’s Well.
Sultans Battery is actually only a watchtower.

But from a distance, it gives the appearance of a miniature fortress.
St. Aloysius Church

This Church, built in the year 1899-1900, is situated 1 km away from the city’s main center. The walls of the church are covered with paintings by the famous Italian artist Antony Moshaini.
St. Aloysius College Chapel, situated on lighthouse hill, is comparable with the Sistine chapel in Rome.
Places to see around Mangalore

Gometswara Statue (54 kms)Situated 20 kms north of Mudabidri is Karkal, famous for Gometswara – a 13 metre high statue of Bahubali, located on a small hillock on the outskirts of the town.This statue was carved in the year 1432.
From here, you can get a good view of the Western Ghats.
Krishna Temple at Udipi (60 Kms)Udupi is famous for its Krishna Temple installed by Sri Madhavacharya about 700 years ago.It is believed that Lord Krishna himself asked Viswakarma to make his image out of Saligram stone.

There is no front door leading to this statute.

The main entrance is actually on the southern side of the temple.

You have to view the idol through a window.

In front of the window there is a small ‘gopuram’.

On the right side of the temple is a tank called Madhwa Pushkarani.

Manipal University at Udipi (60 Kms)
Manipal University does not need any introduction.

The foundation of Manipal University was really laid down by Dr. T M A Pai (Tonse Madhava Ananth Pai – born April 30, 1898).

Dr. Pai was an ordinary man.

He studied medicine and practiced surgery for 15 years.

Then he gave up his medical practice and established the Syndicate Bank.

After that, he diversified into education.
He started the Kasturba Medical College in 1953 and went on to establish several other colleges – medical, dental, pharmacy, allied health sciences, engineering, management, etc.

In 1993, the Government of India granted “Deemed University” status to the institutes and the Manipal Academy for Higher Education (MAHE) was established.

Manipal Academy for Higher Education was the first institute in the private sector to be recognized as a Deemed University in India.
In December 2006, the name Manipal Academy for Higher Education was changed to the more appropriate Manipal University.
Malpe Beach (6 kms from Udipi)
The beautiful Malpe Beach is situated 66 kms north of Mangalore, near Manipal.

The uninhibited St. Mary’s Island, just a boat ride away, has a fine beach and an impressive geological formation of basalt rock pillars in the sea.

Dharmastala (75 Kms)

Dharamstala has a number of Jain bastis and the famous Manjunatha Temple.

There is also a 14 metres high statue of Bahubali, which was erected in 1973.

There are two museums – one containing a wonderful collection of vintage cars – all in working condition; and the other a large assortment of different objects.
The temple provides free boarding and lodging to all visitors.
The same food is served to both the rich and poor.

Dharamstala is also the headquarters of SDM group of educational institutions running medical, dental, ayurvedic, naturopathy, engineering and other colleges throughout Karnataka.

The head is Virendra Hegde, who is worshipped in the same manner as Sri Sathya Sai Baba.

I had the fortune of meeting him personally and discussing with him a lot of things.
Kadri Temple
Kadri Manjunath Temple is located at the foot of Kadri Hills near Dharmasthala.

It dates back to 1068 and is built in the Vijaynagar style of architecture.

The ancient temple, with its nine tanks and square temple, is the highest and largest temple in the region.

The seated 1.6 m high, three-faced bronze statue of Lokeshwara, with six arms, is one of the finest bronze statues in India.
Pandit’s Health Resort & Spa
This is the exclusive resort I wanted to see.

It is located near Moodbidri on the National Highway No. 13 about an hour’s drive from Mangalore.

It has comfortable cottages; beautiful gardens and landscaping; swimming pool; meditation halls; etc. Even a helipad.

Offering all modern facilities one could possibly desire, this will be the latest holistic vedic healing resort in the country.

In its final stages of completion, this resort is an exclusive centre, meant for the rich and wealthy, and therefore pretty expensive.
Reaching there

Air

Mangalore has an international airport (20 km from the city).

There are several flights every day from Mumbai, Bangalore and Kochi.

There are also a number of flights from the middle east countries.
Rail

Mangalore has a railway station.

Road

Mangalore is connected to all the major cities by good all weather roads.

Where to Stay

There are a number of hotels and lodges of all kinds in Mangalore.

Mangalore is also famous for its spicy exotic delicacies.