The Golden City 

Where would you go if you wanted to see sand, desert and sand dunes in India?The best place is Jaisalmer – in the middle of Thar Desert in Rajasthan.JaisalmerThe small town of Jaisalmer, nicknamed “The Golden City” – because this is what the town looks like – stands on a ridge of yellow sandstone on top of the Trikuta Hill.
It is crowned by a fort, which contains the palace buildings and beautiful Jain temples. Even today, a fourth of the population live within the Fort.
Many of the houses and temples are beautifully sculpted. 

History

According to legend, Lord Krishna told Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav clan would build his kingdom on top of Trikuta Hill.

In keeping with this prophesy, Rawal Jaisal, a descendant of Yadav clan, founded Jaisalmer in 1156. 

Deoraj, a famous prince of the family known as ‘Bhati’ family, is considered to be real founder of the Jaisalmer dynasty. He adopted the title of Rawal. Rawal Jaisal, the sixth in succession from Deoraj, founded the fort and city of Jaisalmer in 1156, and moved over to Jaisalmer from the former capital at Lodhruva (situated about 15 kms to the south-east of Jaisalmer).
Jaisalmer, meaning “the Hill Fort of Jaisal”, was named after him.
 The first siege of Jaisalmer took place in 1294 during the reign of Alauddin Khilji.
Alauddin Khilji was angered by Bhatis’ raid on a caravan filled with treasure.
Alauddin Khilji’s army captured and sacked the fort and the city of Jaisalmer.
For quite some time, Jaisalmer lay deserted.We do not know what happened during the next decades.
Next, we find Rawal Sahal Singh, who acknowledged the supremacy
of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan.The major opponents of Jaisalmer rulers were the powerful rulers of Jodhpur and Bikaner.
They used to fight for the possession of forts, waterholes or cattle.Jaisalmer was strategically positioned as a halting point along a traditional trade route used by camel caravans commuting between Indian and Asian markets. The main source of income of Jaisalmer were the levies on the caravans.
However, the importance of Jaisalmer declined when Bombay emerged as a port, and sea trade replaced the traditional land routes.
The partition of India in 1947 led to the closing of all trade routes through the Indo-Pak border.  
But the skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and it became an army supply depot.
Later, the Rajasthan Canal revived the surrounding desert areas.
And the Government built roads and railways, knitting the remote Jaisalmer with the rest of Rajasthan.

What to seeJaisalmer Fort 

From its 250 feet high vantage point on the hill, the Fort stands vigil over the surrounding desert.
Its massive walls follow the contours of the hills.
The Fort has five interconnected palaces with intricate ‘jaali’ screens and beautiful ‘jharokhas’.
Steep cobblestone pathways passing through the four gates lead to the royal palace.
The sharp twists and turns make the fort invincible.

Jain Temples

Inside the fort, there are four Jain temples, dedicated to Rishabdevji Sambhavnathji and Parshvanathji. The Parshvanathji Temple is the oldest and the most beautiful of all.
Human and animal figures are carved on the walls of its sanctum.
The dome or ’shikhar’ is  crowned by an amalak and a water pot containing a lotus flower.

Gyan Bhandar or Library 

The Jain temples have a library containing some of the oldest manuscripts of India. 

Gadsisar Lake

Excavated in 1367 by Rawal Gadsi Singh, the Gadsisar is a beautiful rainwater lake surrounded by small temples and shrines.This lake has a beautiful arched gateway.
Today, it is an ideal picnic and boating spot. 

Havelis

There are a number of beautiful Havelis in Jaisalmer.

Salim Singh-ki-Haveli - This was once the residence of the Mohta family, ministers of Jaisalmer rulers. 

Patwon-ki-Haveli – This five haveli wonder is the grandest mansion in Jaisalmer.
Its ceilings are supported by exquisitely carved pillars and the balconies are delicately chiselled.

Nathmalji-ki-Haveli -  This was carved by two brothers.
One worked from the right side and the other from the left.
But the entire construction is harmonious.

Places to see around Jaisalmer

Lodurva (16 kms)

The former capital of Jaisalmer rulers is an  important pilgrimage centre  for Jains.
An architectural masterpiece of Lodurava is the ‘Toran’ or ornate arch at the main entrance with its exquisite carvings.
‘Kalpatru’, or the divine tree, is another great attraction.

Sam Sand Dunes (42 kms)

The not to be missed thing to see in Jaisalmer are the sand dunes.
The shifting ripples on the sand dunes, caused by the wind, some as high as 150 feet, constantly create and recreate new designs.
They are the photographer’s delight.Various cultural programs are  organised against the backdrop of these fascinating dunes.
A lot of Hindi films are shot around the sand dunes.
If you are fond of adventure, you can go out on a camel safari – in the desert on camel back. 

Wood Fossil Park (17 kms)

This park, on the Barmer Road, takes  you back to the Jurassic period.
You can see 180 million year old fossilized trees. 

Desert National Park

This 3162 sq. kms. vast Biosphere Reserve lies to the south-west of Jaisalmer. 
This is one of the largest National Parks in India, but very different from the ones we are accustomed to. Here you can see sand dunes.
You can see the Indian Gazelle, Chinkara and a lot of birds.

You can see the rare and endangered Great Indian Bustard in relatively large numbers.
This bird migrates locally in different seasons.
There are a lot of other migratory and resident birds – eagles, harriers, falcons, buzzards, kestrel and vultures. Short-toed Eagles, Tawny Eagles, Spotted Eagles, Laggar Falcons and Kestrels.
You can see the Sand grouse near small ponds or lakes.The best time to visit the wild life is between November and January.However, the three day Desert Festival in February is unique.
You can see and hear folk dancers swing to the enchanting folk music under the full moon.
You can watch the unique turban tying contest and the Mr. Desert contest.

Reaching there

Air

The nearest airport is Jodhpur (285 kms).

Rail

Jaisalmer has a railway station and is connected with Jodhpur by night train.

Road

Jaisalmer is well connected by good roads with all the major cities of India.

Distances

Ahmedabad (626 kms)
Bikaner 325 km Pokaran (112 kms) 
Jaipur (558 kms)
Jodhpur (285 kms Via Pokaran) 
Mumbai (1177 kms)
New Delhi (864 kms)

Recommendation
 
Satyajit Ray, the famous Indian film director, wrote a detective novel based on this fort.
He later made it into the film – Sonar Kella (The Golden Fortress).
Jump to: navigation, search Every house in Jaisalmer is exquisitely carved, having filigree work all over.
Most of the houses date back to the 12th to 15th centuries.
And hence, Jaisalmer is also called ‘the Museum city’. Surrounded by desert, sand and sand dunes, Jaisalmer is truly a
different experience.

Mumbai
Where everything is in a hurry

Delhi is the political capital, but Mumbai (Bombay)

is the undisputed financial capital of India.

It also has Bollywood, India’s counterpart of Hollywood,

the world of Hindi films and glamour.

It has the largest port in India.
Mumbai is also the head quarters of all major banks, financial institutions and industrialists.

The Mumbai Stock Exchange is one of the leading stock exchanges in the world.
History


Mumbai originally consisted of seven islands – Colaba, Mazagaon, Old Woman’s Island, Wadala, Mahim, Parel, and Matunga-Sion.

These islands formed part of the kingdom of Ashoka, the famous Emperor of India.

Over the years, these islands have been joined together by a series of reclamations.
Bombay Stock Exchange
The Bombay Stock Exchange was established in 1875 as “The Native Share and Stockbrokers Association”.

In the early days, business was conducted under the shade of a banyan tree in front of the Town Hall in the Horniman Circle Park.
Today, the fully computerized Bombay Stock Exchange is located in the 28 storey Phiroze Jeejeebhoy Towers built on the land which was acquired in 1928.
Sightseeing

The places worth visiting are:
The Marine Drive, or Queen’s Necklace – a beautiful, brilliantly lit, curving road on the sea face. It was built on land reclaimed from Back Bay along the Arabian Sea. A lot of Indian movies are shot here.
On one end of Marine Drive is the Chowpatty Beach which overlooks a calm and quiet bay. The area turns into a fun fair at night with vendors, pony rides, fortune tellers, performing monkeys, and families out for a stroll. You can also do some water sports here.
On the far end of Marine Drive is Nariman Point, the hub of commercial activities and the most expensive location in India.
The Flora Fountain at Hutatma Chowk, built in 1869, is the old centre of commercial activities. You can buy some good second hand books from the book sellers here.
The stately Rajabai Clock Tower on the ornamented building of the Mumbai University is visible from afar.
The University is one of the finest educational institutions in the world.
The imposing High Court building next to the University, built in the Neo-Gothic style, is an architectural delight.
The Gothic Victoria Terminus (now renamed Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus), the main railway terminus of the Central Railway, will transform you back into the British Era.
Crawford Market, or what remains of it today, where you could once buy fruits, vegetables, meat, grocery and pets of all kinds.
The Prince of Wales Museum with its huge white dome, inspired by the Gol Gumbaz of Bijapur, houses an impressive collection of artefacts from Elephanta Island, Jogeshwari Caves, terracotta figures from the Indus Valley, ivory carvings, statues and a large collection of paintings and miniatures.
The National Gallery of Modern Art where you can see the works of Indian masters as well as modern Indian art.
The Nehru Planetarium where you can explore the mysteries of the cosmos and outer space.
The Gateway of India built in 1911, to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to India, in the 16th century architectural style of Gujarat. From here, you can take a ferry to visit the Elephanta Caves.

Temples, Mosques and churches

Mumbai is a truly cosmopolitan city. You can visit the extremely popular Haji Ali mosque; the highly revered Mahalakshmi (Goddess of Wealth) Temple; the Sidhi Vinayak Temple; the Parsi Tower of Silence and the several Zoroastrian Fire Temples; the Mount St Mary’s Church, Aloysius Church, Mahim Church and St Thomas’ Cathedral churches, and many more places of worship.
Elephanta Island
Once upon a time Elephanta Island – an hour’s journey by boat from Mumbai – was the capital of a powerful coastal kingdom.
When the Portuguese captured the island, they named it Elephanta after a monolith elephant they found on the island. The monolith has been removed and can now be seen in the Bombay Museum.
The Portuguese used the island for military exercises. In the process, they damaged and destroyed many sculptures there.
You can travel to the island by ferry. On the island are beautiful ancient caves carved out of solid basalt rock during the 3rd or 5th centuries.
Accomodation

Mumbai is an expensive city. Hotels are expensive. Ascertain the tariff before hand and make advance reservations especially if you are coming during the peak periods of October to December.

Best time to visit

The summers are hot.

The rainy season – July to September can really be dripping with rain.

The months of October to March are reasonably good.

There are plenty to places around Mumbai where you could spend a few days.

So keep a few days to spare.
My views
I live in Mumbai. It is a very crowded and congested city.

What is really surprising about the city is that every one and every thing

seems to be in a hurry.

It is said Mumbai is a city which never sleeps.

And Mumbai has its moods – which change like human moods change.

Goa

The Old Portugese Settlement

Goa is a dream world of fun, frolic and leizure – rolling stretches of silver sands, wonderful golden beaches and waving palm trees.

HistoryAccording to Hindu mythology, the sage Parashuram (sixth of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu) created Goa; and Goa became a popular retreat for the Gods in times of stress.

Lord Shiva, the Destroyer, visited Goa twice, after marital squabbles with his wife, Parvati. But on both occasions, Parvati followed him, made up and they returned back to the heavens!

During the 3rd century BC, Goa was part of the great Mauryan kingdom of Emperor Ashoka. After his death in 232 BC, the region came under the rule of various Hindu dynasties such as Satavahanas, Kshatrapas, Chalukyas and the Rashtrakutas.

The Kadambas, an indigenous dynasty, rose to power in the 10th century. They ruled for over three hundred years and using the natural harbours, they turned Goa into a thriving centre of maritime trade.

The 14th century was a turbulent period. Goa passed from the Yadavas of Devagiri to the Delhi Sultans (1356-1378), and finally to the Vijayanagar Empire who ruled it for almost a hundred years.

Towards the end of the 15th century, the Bahamani Sultans of Gulbarga and the Adil Shahis of Bijapur held sway.

In 1498, the Portuguese landed in Calicut, Kerala. They could not get a foothold there, so in 1510, they snatched Goa from the Adil Shahis. They established maritime supremecy in the Arabian Sea and controlled most of the prosperous trade routes.

Goa became the seat of the Portuguese Empire in India and the Far East. Its capital, Old Goa, became a centre of immense wealth and opulence, attracting hoardes of Portuguese immigrants. By the end of the 16th century, Old Goa had a population of around 300,000 – much larger than that of Lisbon, Paris or London!

During the early 18th century, the Marathas posed a threat, but the Portuguese not only managed to retain control, but enlarged their territory further east. Some movements for independence did begin in the late 19th century, but Goa remained under Portuguese rule till its merger with India in 1961.

Goa

Goa is actually a state with its own capital which creates some confusion.Goa state is geographically divided into North and South districts.

What to see

North Goa

The capital of Goa is Panaji. It lies on the southern bank of the Mandovi River in North Goa.

Here, you can purchase almost any thing you like. There are also some good hotels and restaurants.
 

 The dominating structure

of Panaji is the Church of Immaculate Conception (1541 AD). In medieval times, all Portugese sailors arriving in Goa came to this Church for thanks giving mass for their safe arrival. It is situated in the main market place.

9 km east along the river is Old Goa – the old centre of the rich and wealthy Portugese. Old Goa was practically abandoned after the river silted up and the new capital Panaji was set up in 1843. All that remains of this glorious city are half a dozen churches, cathedrals, a monastery and convent. You can still see the old style houses and streets.

The Se Cathedral of St. Catherine, is the largest church in Asia. It has 14 altars, an 80 metre long aisle and 5 bells including the Golden Bell – one of the finest in the world.

The 16th century Basilica of Bom Jesus with its richly gilded altars is famous for believers and non believers alike. Since 1553, the beautiful Church contains the embalmed mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier in a silver casket.

Beaches in North Goa

Miramar Beach is closest to the capital Panaji (3 km), and therefore far more crowded and dirty. But from here, you can watch spectacular sunsets as the sun sets at the confluence of the River Mandovi and the Arabian Sea.

Dona Paula, 9 km south west of Panaji, is a small, idyllic beach.The Palm-fringed Sinquerim beach is at the foot of Fort Aguada.Nearby is Candolim beach. Further north are Calangute, Baga and Anjuna beaches.
The Baga Beach is popular for various water sports – parasailing, jet skiing, body boarding and surfing. During the seasons, you can go out into the sea to watch the dolphins. Calangute and Baga both have flea markets where you can purchase all kinds of handicrafts.

There are a number of other beaches further north. They are more secretive and more secluded. If you want peace and quiet – head North.

South Goa

South Goa is quieter than North Goa.

The main cities of South Goa are Margao and Vasco da Gama.
Some of the popular beaches are Majorda, Colva and Varca.

If you have time, you could drive down south of Goa and visit the picturesque beaches of Karnataka.

What to do

You can take a cruise on one of the many vessels there. On the vessel, you can watch the local dance and music and taste the local liquor feni.

You can go to the casino on the floating vessel Santa Monica and try your luck.

Try to visit a Spice Garden. You will see different kinds of spices. The entry fee includes a good local meal and a traditional dance.

The night life of Goa is legendary. There are plenty of discoes, pubs and bars.

Other Places to see

There are a number of other places to see around Goa. Old Forts. Water Falls. Wild Life sanctuaries.

Best time to visit

The best time to visit is between late October and early April.

Goa is all play and no work during the Christmas week. The entire place is teeming with tourists.

If you plan to visit Goa during Christmas, make all your reservations well in advance.
A second season is during the rains. The tariffs are very low. And the entire place becomes a fairy land.

Accomodation

There are numerous places of all kinds from the 5 star to the budget type available.

And if you like sea food, Goa is the place to visit.

Clothing

You need only cottons throughout the year.
But bring beach wear, caps, sunglasses, sunscreen creams and suntan lotions.
Don’t worry, you can purchase all these items in Goa at reasonable rates.

Reaching there

Air
Goa has an international airport at Dabolim – 30 km from Panaji.
Goa is well connected with Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, Kochi, Chennai and other major cities of India.
A number of overseas travel organizations organize cheap charter flights to Goa.

Train
There are two main railway stations – Margao (Madgaon) and Vasco da Gama. The train journey from Mumbai and Mangalore on the Konkan Railway is picturesque and delightful.

Road
You can even travel from Mumbai, Bangalore, Mangalore, Mysore, Pune by car.
The road is good.

Ooty

The Queen of Hill Stations

The Queen of Hill Stations in South India is Udhagamandalam or Ootacamund. I find both terms far too long and tongue twisting; and prefer the much shorter term Ooty.
Ooty is certainly the most popular hill station in South India.
Ooty, located in the Western ghats at a height of 2240 metres, is the headquarters of the Nilgiris district where the Eastern and Western ghats meet.

Flora and Fauna

Ooty is full of coffee estates and tea plantations. The dense forests around are full of connifers, eucalyptus, pine and wattle; numerous animals and birds.

Surprisingly, probably due to its inaccessibility, Ooty was practically unknown to the Indians till the early 1800s when it was discovered by John Sullivan, the then British Collector of Coimbatore. The Britishers constructed the first railway line in the area and made Ooty the summer capital of Madras Presidency.
 

The earlier inhabitants of the land were the tribals called Todas who claim to have lived in the Nilgiris since time immemorial.

What to see

Lake

The centre of attraction, the artificial Ooty Lake, was constructed by John Sullivan in 1824. The Lake is surrounded by well maintained gardens.

You can do boating in the lake. You can also do fishing, but you have to obtain prior permission from the Assistant Director of Fisheries.
John Sullivan lies buried in the cemetery close to St. Stephens Church (built in 1829) on Club Road.

Botanical Garden

The beautiful Botanical Garden laid over 50 acres of land was established by the Marquis of Tweeddale in 1848. It is maintained by the Government of Tamil Nadu.

It has a large collection of exotic and ornamental plants; a beautiful Italian floral garden; well maintained lawns and a 20 million year old fossilized tree trunk.

Government Museum

The Government Museum on Mysore Road, which was set up in 1989, has a good collection of tribal artefacts and arts and crafts of Tamil Nadu.

Doddabetta (10 Kms)

Doddabetta is the highest peak (2623 metres) in the Nilgiris. It lies at the junction of Western and Eastern Ghats and offers panoramic views of the Nilgiri Hills. There is a telescope house.

Kotagiri (29 Kms)

Kotagiri is a lovely hamlet (1982 metres feet above sea level). The climate here is very salubrious. The road to Kotagiri is flanked by tea gardens.

Rose Garden

It is located about 4 kms from Charring Cross. Spread over 10 acres of land, it has about 2000 variety of roses.

Art Gallery – Lalith Kala Academy (2 Kms)

Situated on the main Mysore road, it has a good collection of contemporary paintings and sculptures from all over India.

Mini Garden (1 Km)

The mini garden (Children’s Lake Garden) is on the way to the Boat House. There is also a children’s amusement park here.

Deer Park (1 Km)

The Deer Park is a park worth visiting.

Excursions

Mudumulai Wildlife Sanctury (64 kms)

Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary is the most important wild life reserve in the state and borders the Bandipur National Park in Karnataka and the Wyanad Sanctuary in Kerala.

The dense forests shelter a wide range of animals and birds.

The animals include tiger, leopard, elephants, sloth bear, gaur, sambar, spotted deer, Indian muntjac, wild boar, hyena, wild dog, jackal, langur, bonnet macaque, mouse deer and flying squirrel.

The birds include Malabar trogan, Grey hornbill, crested hawk eagle, crested serpent eagle, etc.The Ooty Mysore road actually passes through the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary.

Once we were passing through it in a bus. A musth male elephant was standing in the middle of the road. All traffic had stopped. Finally, after several hours, the elephant felt it was enough and decided to leave. Then only, the traffic resumed.

Coonoor (on the toy-train line – 28 kms from Mettupalayam )

Coonoor, located at an altitude of 1858 metres (6100 ft.) is on the way between Coimbatore and Udhagamandalam. It is a smaller, but equally enchanting, and far more quiet and picturesque hill station in the Nigiris.

The Sim’s Park in Coonoor, having a distinctive Japanese style, contains a large array of plants including the Rudrakhsa (holy beads) tree.

Dolphin’s Nose (12 Kms from Coonoo)

This is a beautiful spot. You can also see the Catherine Falls from here.

Ketti Valley View Point

Located on the road to Coonoor, this spot is a cluster of small villages that extend to the plains of Coimbatore and Mysore plateau.

Kalhatty Water Falls (13 kms from Ooty)

Is located on the Kalhatty slopes on the Ooty – Mysore Kalhatty Ghat road. The height of the water falls is about 100 ft. Kalhatty – Masinagudi slope area is rich in wildlife and different types of birds.

Mukurthi Peak & Mukurthi National Park (40 kms from Ooty)

The Mukurthi National Park is located on the South Eastern corner of the Nilgiris.
The unique feature of this sanctuary is the similarity of its flora and fauna to those found in the Himalayas.
The area contains Nilgiri Tahr (Hamitragus hilocrius).
Silent valley is located on the western side of these ranges.

Pykara (21 kms from Ooty)

Pykara has well protected fenced Sholas; Toda settlements; virgin grassy meadows and also a large variety of wildlife.
The Pykara Dam, Pykara falls and the reservoir are good tourist spots.You can also do some boating here.

Avalanche (28 kms from Ooty)

This is a beautiful lake surrounded by thick shola trees where even sunlight cannot penetrate. This area is a Nature Lover’s Paradise.

Clothing

Heavy woollens in winter.
Cottons in summer.

Getting there

Air
The nearest airport is Coimbatore – 100 Kms.Coimbatore has direct flights from Chennai, Mumbai and Bangalore.

Rail
Ooty is connected to Mettpalayam by the Nilgiri Blue Mountain Railway – an age old narrow gauge railway.

The unforgettable train journey from Mettupalayam to Ooty passes through eleven stations and over nineteen small bridges.

The train passes throgh areca plantations, tea and coffee estates offering spectacular views of the misty Nilgiris.

Road
Ooty is connected by good motorable road.
It is 535 Kms from Chennai (Via Salem, Mettupalayam) and 89 Kms from Coimbatore.

Summer Festivals

Ooty has a number of summer festivals.
Flower and Fruit shows; Boat races; Boat pageantry; Dog shows; Cultural Programs; Fashion parades, etc.
These attract a lot of tourists.
Adventure sports like trekking also form part of the festival.

Season

The main season is the summer.
But Ooty is more enchanting during the rainy season.

the Gateway to Manipal University and Dharamstala

Because of the similarity of names, many people confuse Mangalore with Bangalore.Mangalore is an altogether different city – about 357 kms from Bangalore.Recently, I received an invitation to visit Mangalore.

I literally jumped up…….. because for some time past, I had actually been looking for an occasion, or rather an excuse,to visit Mangalore.I wanted to visit Mangalore for two purposes:
· To re-visit Manipal University(I have visited it earlier, too), conceptualized by Dr. T M A Pai, who ushered into India the era of private, self financing, paid education, attracting a large number of overseas students; and
· to see one of the most exclusive resorts in India in its final stages of construction.Introduction to Mangalore

In Mangalore, I purchased the book ‘Beware Falling Coconuts’ written by Adam Clapham.

Claphan worked as a TV producer with the BBC for more than three decades.

He spent most of his working life in India – making documentaries for the BBC.

In one of the chapters of this book, he has described his search for a good place to settle down after he had retired from the BBC.

He chose India, he explains why, and finally landed up in Mangalore where he now lives in a nice spacious bungalow.

Mangalore has its own rustic charm.

Even today, there are plenty of old style tile-roofed buildings (called Mangalorean tiles) surrounded by coconut groves and banana plantations.

In the distance, you can see fishing boats outlined against the skyline as the fishermen draw in their catch.

Mangalore is also the gate way to Udipi, where Manipal University is located, and to Dharamstala – another fascinating place.

These are the two places you must visit.

History

Mangalore was named after a local Hindu deity Mangaladevi.

According to local legend, Matsyendranath, an important protagonist of the Nath cult, arrived at Mangalore with Premaladevi, the princess of Kerala.

Matsyendranath converted the princess to his cult and rechristened her Mangaladevi.

But Mangaladevi died after a brief illness and the Mangaladevi Temple was constructed at Bolar in her name.

The temple was renovated by the Alupa king, Kundaverma Alupendra II, in 968 A.D.

Mangalore has a long and chequered history.

There are many historical references relating to the city.

Even a thousand years back, Mangalore was a flourishing port and trading centre.

Location
Mangalore is surrounded by rivers on three sides.

To the south is the Netravati River.

To the west, and curving sharply inwards towards the north, is the Gurupur River.

To the west, the Gurupur River is followed by a sand bank, followed by the Arabian Sea.

The National Highway No. 17 runs through the district for more than 95 kms – almost parallel to the sea.

The distance between the highway and the sea is never more than a few kilometers.

Mangalore has several beautiful palm fringed beaches and is surrounded by lush green fields and dense forests.
Places to see

Mangaladevi Temple

The Mangaladevi Temple, situated about 3 kms from the main city, is a major place of attraction.

A colourful festival takes place here during the Durga Puja (October).

Sultans Battery

The Sultans Battery is situated in Boloor – 4 kms away from Mangalore City.

It was built in black stone by Tippu Sultan to prevent battleships from entering the Gurupur river.

The surviving portion of the fort is known as Tippu’s Well.
Sultans Battery is actually only a watchtower.

But from a distance, it gives the appearance of a miniature fortress.
St. Aloysius Church

This Church, built in the year 1899-1900, is situated 1 km away from the city’s main center. The walls of the church are covered with paintings by the famous Italian artist Antony Moshaini.
St. Aloysius College Chapel, situated on lighthouse hill, is comparable with the Sistine chapel in Rome.
Places to see around Mangalore

Gometswara Statue (54 kms)Situated 20 kms north of Mudabidri is Karkal, famous for Gometswara – a 13 metre high statue of Bahubali, located on a small hillock on the outskirts of the town.This statue was carved in the year 1432.
From here, you can get a good view of the Western Ghats.
Krishna Temple at Udipi (60 Kms)Udupi is famous for its Krishna Temple installed by Sri Madhavacharya about 700 years ago.It is believed that Lord Krishna himself asked Viswakarma to make his image out of Saligram stone.

There is no front door leading to this statute.

The main entrance is actually on the southern side of the temple.

You have to view the idol through a window.

In front of the window there is a small ‘gopuram’.

On the right side of the temple is a tank called Madhwa Pushkarani.

Manipal University at Udipi (60 Kms)
Manipal University does not need any introduction.

The foundation of Manipal University was really laid down by Dr. T M A Pai (Tonse Madhava Ananth Pai – born April 30, 1898).

Dr. Pai was an ordinary man.

He studied medicine and practiced surgery for 15 years.

Then he gave up his medical practice and established the Syndicate Bank.

After that, he diversified into education.
He started the Kasturba Medical College in 1953 and went on to establish several other colleges – medical, dental, pharmacy, allied health sciences, engineering, management, etc.

In 1993, the Government of India granted “Deemed University” status to the institutes and the Manipal Academy for Higher Education (MAHE) was established.

Manipal Academy for Higher Education was the first institute in the private sector to be recognized as a Deemed University in India.
In December 2006, the name Manipal Academy for Higher Education was changed to the more appropriate Manipal University.
Malpe Beach (6 kms from Udipi)
The beautiful Malpe Beach is situated 66 kms north of Mangalore, near Manipal.

The uninhibited St. Mary’s Island, just a boat ride away, has a fine beach and an impressive geological formation of basalt rock pillars in the sea.

Dharmastala (75 Kms)

Dharamstala has a number of Jain bastis and the famous Manjunatha Temple.

There is also a 14 metres high statue of Bahubali, which was erected in 1973.

There are two museums – one containing a wonderful collection of vintage cars – all in working condition; and the other a large assortment of different objects.
The temple provides free boarding and lodging to all visitors.
The same food is served to both the rich and poor.

Dharamstala is also the headquarters of SDM group of educational institutions running medical, dental, ayurvedic, naturopathy, engineering and other colleges throughout Karnataka.

The head is Virendra Hegde, who is worshipped in the same manner as Sri Sathya Sai Baba.

I had the fortune of meeting him personally and discussing with him a lot of things.
Kadri Temple
Kadri Manjunath Temple is located at the foot of Kadri Hills near Dharmasthala.

It dates back to 1068 and is built in the Vijaynagar style of architecture.

The ancient temple, with its nine tanks and square temple, is the highest and largest temple in the region.

The seated 1.6 m high, three-faced bronze statue of Lokeshwara, with six arms, is one of the finest bronze statues in India.
Pandit’s Health Resort & Spa
This is the exclusive resort I wanted to see.

It is located near Moodbidri on the National Highway No. 13 about an hour’s drive from Mangalore.

It has comfortable cottages; beautiful gardens and landscaping; swimming pool; meditation halls; etc. Even a helipad.

Offering all modern facilities one could possibly desire, this will be the latest holistic vedic healing resort in the country.

In its final stages of completion, this resort is an exclusive centre, meant for the rich and wealthy, and therefore pretty expensive.
Reaching there

Air

Mangalore has an international airport (20 km from the city).

There are several flights every day from Mumbai, Bangalore and Kochi.

There are also a number of flights from the middle east countries.
Rail

Mangalore has a railway station.

Road

Mangalore is connected to all the major cities by good all weather roads.

Where to Stay

There are a number of hotels and lodges of all kinds in Mangalore.

Mangalore is also famous for its spicy exotic delicacies.

a mixture of the old British Raj and modern India

Calcutta has given four Nobel laureates to the world – Ronald Ross, Rabindranath Tagore, Mother Teresa and Amartya Sen.

I had my entire schooling and college education in this city.
I also spent the first 15 years of my service life here.
I have been visiting Calcutta at least twice every year.

Change of Name

I deeply hate the change of names – of cities, of roads and even individuals.
I had a colleague from Sultanpur, U.P. whose name was Jokhu Ram.
A simple, traditional, Indian village name.
One fine morning, he became Eklavya Saroj.
Another colleague, Bhullan Singh from Meerut, suddenly became Sisir Kumar.

Theatre Road in Calcutta suddenly became Shakespeare Sarani.
One day, I found myself standing on Shakespeare Sarani asking everyone where Shakespear Sarani was.
Surprisingly, no one seemed to know.
It took a lot of time and effort to find out that I was standing on Shakespeare Sarani!

Then Calcutta became Kolkata, and another city Bombay became Mumbai.
One day, in Bombay, I wanted to travel from Bandra to VT (Victoria Terminus) by a local train. I purchased a ticket and went to the designated platform.
I looked up at the indicators, and to my surprise found that the train was not going to VT, but to CST.
I asked a fellow passenger if I was standing on the wrong platform.
It took some time before both of us found out that VT had become CST (Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus).

The change of name can create far more serious complications.
A friend in New York went to an airlines office to book a ticket to Mumbai.
The lady there told him that there were no flights to Mumbai.
He returned home, called up India, and only after that could he book his tickets.
The reason was that the airlines office records still mentioned Bombay.
Therefore, according to their records, there was no airport called Mumbai.

I detest change of names for more reasons.
For one, the new names are always a wee bit more complicated and difficult to pronounce. Secondly, the change of name always involves huge expenditure.
The old letter pads, envelopes and stationary all have to be thrown away.
All the sign boards have to be changed.

It is a colossal waste of money – lots of money – which could be far better utilized in providing food, medicine and education – basic amenities which our people badly need.

All said and done, decisions to change names are taken by politicians in their political interest. Who said politicians work for the national interest?
They work for their political interest.
When one state or government changes the name of its city or road, other states follow the foot prints in the sand of time.

Good Old Calcutta

Back to the good old Calcutta.
Even now I remember the good old school and college days.

Just to recall one episode…….Half a century back, I was a small student.
I was in Class 5 in a co-educational school.
It was basically a girls school, but probably due to shortage of girl students in those days, boys were allowed to study up to Class 5.
In Class 5, we were three boys amidst a bunch of girls.
The students had to sit in wooden desks – 3 to a desk.
We three boys shared one bench.
If the teacher found any of us talking, or if we had not done our homework, or did anything punishable, the errant boy was made to sit between two girls.

I wonder which teacher today would even dream of giving such a wonderful punishment.
And some of the girls were carbon copies of Hema Malini and Madhubala.

There were, and still are, so many wonderful places to see in Calcutta.
I used to spend my Sundays and holidays exploring them.

History

Kolkata (or Calcutta) does not have a glorious old history like Delhi.
It is a relatively new city – merely a little more than three hundred years old.

Who founded Calcutta?
Until recently, the credit was given to Job Charnock.
August 24, 1690, the day Charnock landed in India, was observed as Calcutta’s foundation day.

Believe it or not, Calcutta High Court caught history by its horns, shook it wildly and re wrote it.
In a writ petiton, a Division Bench of the Calcutta High Court found that the Sabarno Roy Chowdhury family got zamindari (land ownership rights) of Sutani, Govindapur and Kalikata (three villages) in 1608; that Job Charnock landed in Sutani village on August 24, 1690 and died in 1693.
But the British received the tenancy rights of Kalikata, Sutani and Govindapur only on November 10, 1698 – after Job Charnock’s death.
Therefore, Job Charnock was not the founder of Kolkata.

The Calcutta High Court directed the Government to change all government records and history books accordingly.

Prior to Charnock’s arrival in 1690, Calcutta was only a village.
The capital of Bengal was Murshidabad, 100 kms north of Calcutta.

In 1686, the Mughals permitted the East India Company to set up a base at Sutanati, Govindpur and Kalikata.
The British abandoned their trading post in Hooghly and shifted here.

They built the Old Fort William in Calcutta in 1696.
Calcutta slowly and steadily grew up till 1756 when Siraj-ud-daulah, the Nawab of Murshidabad, attacked and captured Fort William.
Most of the Britishers fled.
The unfortunate ones fell victim to what is known as the Black Hole of Calcutta.

The British retaliated and defeated Siraj-ud-daullah in the decisive Battle of Plassy in 1757 and recaptured Calcutta.

In 1772, Warren Hastings, the first Governor General, made Calcutta the capital of British India and moved government offices from Murshidabad to Calcutta.
From 1864, the capital moved to the picturesque hilly town of Shimla during the summer months.

During this period, the marshes surrounding Calcutta were drained and the government area laid out along the banks of the Hooghly River.
Richard Wellesley, the Governor General during 1797-1805, is largely responsible for the growth of the city and its style of architecture, which has earned Calcutta the reputation – The City of Palaces.

By early 19th century, Calcutta was divided into two distinct areas – the White Town where the British lived, and the Black Town where the Indians lived.
The poverty and the living conditions in the Black Town shanties were appalling.

From the 1850s, there was rapid industrial growth in the textile and jute sectors.
And Calcutta developed.

The intermixing of British and Indian cultures created a new class of educated, urbane Indians – Babus – the bureaucrats, professionals, etc.

Lord Curzon’s division of Bengal in 1905 created a lot of unrest due to which the British shifted the capital to Delhi in 1911.

Calcutta was British Empire’s second city, after London,

What to see

The Hooghly river separates Calcutta from Howrah (which is a part of Greater Calcutta).
The Howrah Bridge connects the two.
A modern, second Howrah bridge, also connects the two cities.
You can take a boat ride on the river and watch the sun set.
You can start your journey from the Maidan.
It is a huge expanse of lawns bordered by the Hooghly river at one end and the elegant Chowringhee area on the other.
The Maidan is also called Calcutta’s lungs.
This place is the venue of large political meetings.

On the north end of the Maidan is the Shahid Minar, a unique 48 metres column, built in a rare combination of Turkish, Egyptian and Syrian architectural styles.
The Shahid Minar was erected in 1828.

Around the Maidan are a few of Calcutta’s historical landmarks – the magnificent Fort William which is not open to the general public; St. John’s Church; the Royal Calcutta Turf Club and Eden Gardens, which has a cricket stadium with a sitting capacity of 100,000 persons; and the enormous Netaji Indoor Stadium.

At the southern end of the Maidan is the imposing white marble Victoria Memorial, built by the British in 1921.

Lord Curzon modelled Victoria Memorial on the Taj Mahal. Victoria Memorial contains a huge collection of relics of the Britishers – statues, paintings, manuscripts, firearms, lithographs and furniture.
The sprawling lawns around, lined with trees, offers splendid morning or evening walks.

To the east of the Memorial is St Paul’s Cathedral,
one of the most important churches of India, with impressive stained glass windows.

Close by is the National Library which has over a million books – the largest collection in India. The National Library building used to be residence of the Lieutanant Governor of Bengal.

Built in 1875, the Indian Museum building is a fine example of Italian architecture.
This is the largest museum in the country and has six sections – Art, Archaelogy, Anthropology, Geology, Zoology and Industry.
The museum even has an Egyptian Mummy and a large collection of fossils of prehistoric animals, a huge tortoise, a roomful of meteorites and art from temples.

The Calcutta Zoo has a huge collection of animals and plants.
Its full name is Calcutta Zoological Gardens.

Near the Race Course is the second, imposing and ultra-modern cabled bridge on the Hooghly called Vidya Sagar Setu,

Kali Temple at Kalighat is another famous temple.
It is almost next to Mother Teresa’s Home for the Destitute.

Hathibagan is a Sunday market where you can buy small animals, fishes and plants.
Earlier, you could even buy elephants and deer.

Howrah Bridge, which is actually a canti-lever bridge, is an engineering marvel of its day.
Around 2 million people cross it daily.

The Botanical Gardens, laid out in 1786, is actually in Howrah just across Hooghly river.
It has a fabulous collection of plants and trees.
It has a unique 200 year old Banyan tree with a circumference of over 400 metres.

Lying to the North in Howrah is Belur Math.
It is so built that it looks like a temple, a mosque and a church when viewed from different angles.
This is the head quarter of the world famous Ramakrishna Mission.
Swami Vivekananda started his religious journey from here.

Reaching there

By Air

Kolkata has an International Airport.
The Airport is 17 kms away from the city centre.

By Train

There are two stations.
The more important one is Howrah Station on the other side of Hooghly River.
The other one is Sealdah.

By Sea

Kolkata has a port with regular sailings to Port Blair in the Andaman and Nicobar islands, Vishakhapatnam and Chennai.

My views

Calcutta is a different kind of city.

A strange mix of the old British Raj and modern India.
The local people are traditionally fond of dance, drama, music, arts, football and cricket.

They value life and enjoy every single moment.
In the 1970s, the leftist government was too much pro worker oriented leading to a lot of labour unrest.

Several industries closed down.

Many shifted to other states.
But things have since changed.

The present government is encouraging new entrepreneurship and is actively inviting investors.

All this is reflected in the developments clearly discernible throughout the city.

Calcutta is also the gateway to north east India.

You can also visit the enchanting Sunderbans.

What is there to see in a small non-descript place like Aurangabad?

You must visit the place to find out.

Two Mughal Emperors visited the region, and they liked it so much that they shifted their capital from Delhi to this region.

The Daulatabad Fort, which is one of the world’s best preserved forts of medieval times, alone would make Aurangabad a great place to visit.

But there is far more to see.

Because Aurangabad is also the gateway to the world famous rock cut caves of Ajanta and Ellora.
Aurangabad or Daulatabad
The two terms are indiscriminately used, as if they represent the same place.

But Aurangabad and Daulatabad are two different cities.

Of the two cities, Daulatabad is far older and at a distance of 16 km. from Aurangabad.

Today, the ruins of Daulabad remain just a reminder of its glorious past, while Aurangabad is one of the major cities of Maharashtra with a number of industries.

Daulatabad (old Devagiri)
The ancient city of Devagiri (from deva giri – meaning Hill of the Gods), the old name for Daulatabad, was founded in 1187 by Bhillama V, a king who renounced his allegiance to the Chalukyas, and established the Yadava dynasty in the west.

He also built a fort in Devagiri.

The present Devagiri Fort was constructed later – during the reign of Singhana II (1210 – 46 A.D.).

Devagiri was captured by Ala-ud-Din Khilji in 1307 A.D., marking the first Muslim invasion of the Deccan (South India).

In 1318 A.D., Malik Kafur killed the last Yadava Raja, Harapal.

Because of its strategic location, in 1327 A.D., Muhammed-bin-Tughluq decided to shift his capital from Delhi to Devagiri.

He changed the name of Devagiri to Daulatabad (from daulat bad meaning City of Fortune); and ordered his entire army, the royal household, ministers, advisors, scholars, poets, musicians and others to move from Delhi to Daulatabad.

The people of Delhi did not want to move out to a new place. Muhammed-bin-Tughluq was very angry and ordered everyone including cats and dogs to move.
Within two years, Muhammad decided to return back to Delhi and ordered a return march which very few survived.

The colossal loss in terms of number of lives lost and the money wasted reduced the prosperity and grandeur of Delhi.

In 1607, Daulatabad passed into the hands of the Nizam Shahi minister, Malik Amber, a usurper, originally an Abyssinian slave, who founded Kharki (the present Aurangabad).

His successors held Daulatabad until their over throw by Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor, in 1633.

Daulatabad remained in the possession of the Delhi emperors until the death of Aurangzeb, the sixth and last Mughal Emperor.

Therafter, it fell to the first Nizam of Hyderabad.
However, the glory of Daulatabad started declining after the 17th century when Mughal Emperors shifted the seat of government to Aurangabad.
Daulatabad Fort
The Fort is strategically located on a pyramid shaped hill, 600 ft above the Deccan plain.

The Fort was constructed on the remains of a Buddhist monastery and signifies unique military engineering planning skills.

The main features of this Fort are:
· A thick outer wall, 6 kms in circumference, which encircled the entire city of Devagiri, including the magnificent Devagiri Fort. This provided the first line of defense.
· Three concentric lines of massive walls with large number of bastions which provided unparalleled defense fortifications.
· The lower slopes of the hill were sliced away by the Yadava rulers to carve out a 50 meter vertical drop so that no hostile troops could clamber up.
· The walls are surrounded by a 40 ft. deep moat. The moat was filled with water and had a large number of crocodiles. There were mechanical draw bridges.
· Long sub-terranean passages hewn out of solid rock.
· The inner walls had heavy iron gates fitted with large iron spikes to deter the use of elephants for ramming the gates open.
· The upper exit of the passage was filled with an iron grating, on which a large fires could be lighted to prevent the progress of the enemy.
· The summit could be reached only by a narrow bridge, which was wide enough for two persons only.
The impregnable Fort could never be conquered in a straight battle. It was always taken over through deceit and treachery.
Other monuments in Daulatabad

Daulatabad contains several remarkable monuments.The chief of them are the Chand Minar and Chini Mahal.The Chand Minar was erected in 1445 by Ala-ud-din Bahmani to commemorate his capture of the Fort.

It is a tower 210 ft. high and 70 ft. in circumference at the base.

It was originally covered with beautiful Persian glazed tiles.

It reminds one of the Kutub Minar in Delhi.

Opposite the Minar is the Jumma Masjid (Friday Mosque), whose pillars originally belonged to a temple.

Close by is a large masonry tank.
The Chini Mahal, or China Palace, is the ruin of a very beautiful building.

Abul Hasan, the last Qutb Shahi king of Golconda, was imprisoned by Aurangzeb in this building in 1687.

Nearby is a round bastion topped with a huge canon with a ram’s head, called Kila Shikan or Fort Vanquisher

Aurangabad

Malik Ambar, the Prime Minister of Murtaza Nizam Shah II, of Ahmednagar, the then ruler of the Deccan founded Aurangabad between 1604 and 1610.

Before that, the site was a village called Kirki (or Khadki).
Initially, the city was named Fatehpura (from fateh pur meaning City of Victory), or after Malik’s son Fateh Khan.
In 1634, Aurangzeb came to Kirki as Governor of Deccan.

Ten years later, Aurangzeb moved over to Agra to play a more active role in Mughal politics.
In 1681, the city again became the residence of Aurangzeb, who had now become the Mughal Emperor.

Aurangzeb shifted the capital from Delhi to Aurangabad.

Till his death in 1707 AD, Aurangzeb used the city as a base for his campaigns against the southern kingdoms.

Fatehpura was renamed Aurangabad, after Aurangzeb, sometime during this time.
Aurangzeb lies buried in Khuldabad, a small town near Aurangabad.

What to see

Bibi ka Maqbara

The Bibi ka Maqbara was built by Emperor Aurangzeb’s son Azam Shah in 1678, in memory of his mother, Begum Rabia Durani.

The white marble monument is a replica of the world famous Taj

Mahal of Agra.

Panchakki
The Panchakki, or water mill, was built by Malik Ambar in 1695.

Water, channeled from a spring in a distant hill, was used to power the mill to grind grain for the pilgrims.
Darwazas

There are four main darwazas (or gates) leading into the city and nine secondary darwazas which formed part of the defense system of Aurangabad.
Aurangabad Caves

Aurangabad has a group of 10 beautiful Buddhist caves just outside the city.

These caves are artificial in the sense they are not natural but were dug out of the soft rock during the 6th and 7th century.
These caves are found on two separate locations, called Western Group Caves (Caves 1 to 5) and Eastern Group Caves (Caves 6 to10) about 1km from each other.

Cave 6 of the Eastern Group has well preserved sculptures of women, with exotic hairstyles and ornamentation.

Cave 7 is the most interesting of the Aurangabad caves.

There are sculptures of scantily dressed women with ornaments and jewels.
Khuldabad
Khuldabad (or the Abode of Eternity) is just a few kilometers from Daulatabad.

In the 14th century, several Sufi saints of the Chishti order, settled down here.

The dargah, or tomb of Moinuddin Chishti, the spiritual guru of the Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb, is in this sacred complex.

Emperor Aurangzeb lies buried nearby in a simple grave as he had wished during his lifetime. His tombstone bears the inscription: “No marble sheets should shield me from the sky as I lie there one with the earth.”
Getting there

Air

Aurangabad has an airport 10 kms from the town.

There are direct flights connecting Aurangabad with Mumbai, Delhi and other Indian cities.

Rail

Aurangabad is well connected to Delhi, Mumbai and other cities.
Road

Aurangabad is about 375 kms from Mumbai.
My Recommendation

Make a full week program and visit Aurangabad, Dalulatabad, Ajanta and Ellora in a single trip. The world famous caves of Ajanta and Ellora are World Heritage Sites.

The summers are hot.

Therefore, the best time to visit these places is between September to early March.

The City of Temples
and the Gate Way to the South

I have visited the 2500 old Madurai City many many times.

The Meenakshi Temple is the largest and most beautiful temple dedicated to any female deity in India.

Madurai is also the gateway to a number of tourist places in South India – such as Rameshwaram, Kanyakumari, Kodai Kanal and Yercaud.

Madurai is the headquarters of the world famous Aravind Eye Hospital, which is doing outstanding philanthropic work in the field of eye care.

And the hi-so Taj Hotel located on a vantage spot here is really affordable.

History
Madurai is the second oldest city in India after Varanasi.

There are chunks of missing periods in its history.

In the 3rd century B.C., Madurai was a flourishing city under the Pandya kings who ruled till the 10th century A.D. when it was captured by the Cholas.

The Cholas ruled from 920 A.D. till 1223 A.D., when the Pandyas regained their lost kingdom.

In April 1311 A.D., Malik Kafur, the General of Alauddin Khilji – the ruler of Delhi, raided Madurai and robbed the city’s precious stones, jewels and other rare treasures.

In 1323 A.D., Madurai became a province of the Delhi empire.

In 1371 A.D., the Vijayanagar dynasty of Hampi captured Madurai.

Nayak Rule
Vijayanagar rulers appointed Governors known as Nayaks or Nayyakars to administer their distant territories.

By 1545 A.D., the Nayaks of Madurai became more autonomous.

After the Vijayanagar empire collapsed in 1565 A.D., the Nayaks established the Nayak dynasty which remained in power up to the 1740s.

Rani (Queen) Mangammal (1689-1704 A.D.) of the Nayak dynasty was an able and courageous ruler.

She bravely fought against foreign invaders.

Her successors were weak rulers.

The kingdom broke up after her.
The Meenakshi Temple
Most visitors come to Madurai to see the Meenakshi temple.
In fact, Madurai city was originally built around the Meenakshi temple.

Concentric rectangular streets were built around the temple.

And they were named after the Tamil months of Aadi, Chithirai and Maasi symbolizing the structure of the cosmos.
The original temple was built by the early Pandya king Kulasekhara to enshrine the Shiva Linga, which according to mythology was worshipped by God Indra.

Most of the old temple was destroyed by the Muslim invaders and later rebuilt by Hindu rulers.

The Meenakshi temple is dedicated to Goddess Meenakshi (a form of Parvati).

There is also a sanctum for Sundareshwar (or Siva), her consort.

In keeping with Indian tradition, where the husband commands greater respect than his wife, the Sundareshwar (or Siva) shrine is larger and older; but Meenakshi is worshipped first.

Devotees enter the temple through the South Gopuram (southern tower) and worship Goddess Meenakshi before worshipping her consort.

The temple is a treasure trove of beautiful statues.

The statue depicting the Wedding of Meenakshi and Sundareswara is considered a masterpiece.
The Temple Complex is breathtaking.

It has massive fort-like walls encirling an area of 640,000 square feet (60,000 m²) with four major lofty Gopurams facing the four directions.

Each Gopuram is sculptured with more than a thousand painted figures of Hindu gods, animals and mythological creatures.
The Thousand Pillar Mandapam (1000 pillars hall) is the ‘wonder of the temple’.

For unknown reasons, there are actually 985 pillars in the 1000 pillars hall.

Each pillar is beautifully sculptured.

There is a Temple Art Museum in the 1000 pillars hall where you can see historical and archaeological exhibits.
Just outside the 1000 pillars hall, towards the west, are the Musical Pillars.

Each pillar, when struck with a spoon, produces a different musical note.

There are a number of shops inside the temple complex selling an assortment of things. But you must learn the subtle art of bargaining.
Potraamaraikkulam or the Golden Lotus pond

When you enter the temple, you see the spectacular Potraamaraikkulam (meaning the Golden Lotus pond) surrounded by corridors depicting murals from the Thiruvilaiyaadal Puraanam (episodes of Sundareswar ).
In ancient times, the sangam, or assembly of poets, used to gather at this pond to judge the merits of new compositions, often by throwing the manuscripts into the pond itself.

Those that sank were supposed to be inferior, while those that floated were worthy of praise and propagation.
Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal

Thirumalai Nayak (1623-1659 A.D.) was a very popular ruler.

He created many magnificent structures in and around Madurai – the Raja Gopuram of the Meenakshi Temple; the Pudu Mandapam and the Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal (Palace).

The Thirumalai Nayakar Mahal, located in Madurai, was constructed in the Indo-Saracen style in 1636 A.D.
There were originally two parts – the beautifully decorated, Swarga vilasa (heavenly repose) meant for the King, his harem and housing the darbar court; and the Rang vilasa,which was for the commoners.

Most of Rang vilasa was demolished by Thirumalai Naicker’s Grandson.
Only about a fourth of the original structures remain today.

The Palace is a national monument under the care of the Tamil Nadu Archaeological Department.

There is a sound and light show in the evening (both in English and Tamil).
Madurai has a large number of beautiful temples.

This is the reason it is known as the “Temple City”.
Kazimar Periya Pallivasal or Kazimar Big Mosque

The Kazimar Periya Pallivasal or Kazimar Big Mosque is located within a kilometre of the temple.

Hazrat Kazi Syed Tajuddin, who came from Oman during late 12th century, obtained this land from king Ku Pandiyan and constructed the mosque – the first Muslim place of worship in Madurai.

His descendants (Huqdars – Share holders of that mosque called Syeds) have lived in the same locality for 700 years, and managed the mosque ever since.

Syed Tajuddin was appointed as Kazi of the sultans; and till now, his descendants who live in Kazimar Street are appointed as Kazis to the Government of Tamil Nadu.
Aravind Eye Hospital

The Aravind Eye Hospital here is a peculiar world class institution rendering free eye care services to an unbelievably large number of patients.

It is a model even students of management are trying to take lessons from and emulate.

It is fondly called the MacDonalds of Eye Surgery.
The Taj Hotel

The Taj Hotel is linked with luxury and expensiveness.

But the Taj Hotel here is affordable.
Getting there

There are direct flights from Chennai (Madras).

There are also convenient over night trains from Chennai.

You could also travel from Chennai to Madurai by car.
Recommendation
Madurai is a beautiful temple city and the gateway to the South.

You can even make it a base to see different places in the South.

The Pink City
Prince amongst the cities of India

Jaipur, or the Pink City, is the undisputed prince amongst the cities of India.

Status of Royalty in India – Pathetic

Someone wrote to me enquiring about the present status of the Royalty in India.

There were 547 kings and rulers in India before 1947.

After India attained independence, all these kingdoms seamlessly merged into India.

But the rulers were given privy purse, annual sums of money, as compensation.

They were also allowed to keep their palaces, jewelley, etc. and certain other privileges.
In 1969, Indira Gandhi abolished the privy purse – indirectly snatching away all their rights and privileges.

Overnight, the kings became commoners.

So now they are treated just like common men.

A few ex-rulers like Karan Singh and late Madhav Rao Scindia entered politics.

Many converted their palaces into five star or heritage hotels to maintain themselves.
A few rulers are still respected by the people.
Glamorous Maharani Gayatri Devi

Maharani (Queen) Gayatri Devi of Jaipur (Born 23 May, 1919) is one of the world’s most glamorous ladies.

Foreign magazines rated her amongst the most beautiful ladies of the world.

She had her education in Shantiniketan (West Bengal) and abroad.

At the young age of 17, she fell in love with, and married Man Singh, then the heir to the Maharajah of Jaipur.
Gayatri’s parents, the Maharajah and Maharani of Cooch Behar, were against the marriage, because Man Singh already had two wives – daughters of the Maharajah of Jodhpur, but Gayatri Devi had her way.

She contested the Indian Parliamentary Election in 1962 and won – creating a Guinness record for the record number of votes polled.

She won the elections again in 1967 and 1971.

She spends the summers in England.

You can see more of her and her photographs at the following site:

http://coochbehar.nic.in/HTMfiles/present_royal_member.html
Privy Purse
Most of us are not aware that the word ‘privy purse’ refers to the British Sovereign’s private income, mostly from the Duchy of Lancaster.

What is astounding is that that after deduction of the amounts spent for official purposes, the remaining income is fully taxed.

Jaipur

I have visited Jaipur earlier too.

Recently, we had a couple of German guests.

We decided to take them to Jaipur.
History
The City of Jaipur in Rajasthan, India was founded in 1727 A.D by the Kachhawa ruler Sawai (meaning one and a quarter) Jai Singh II (1700 – 1747 A.D.) – one of the greatest Indian rulers.

Jaipur is surrounded by the Aravali hills on three sides.

It glitters like a jewel amidst the sandy deserts of Rajasthan and is surrounded by historical forts, majestic palaces, mansions and gardens of great architectural beauty.
Jaipur is remarkable for its fabulous architecture and town planning.

It is the only city in the world which is divided into nine rectangular sectors representing the nine divisions of the universe.

It is also the first planned city designed built in accordance with Vaastu Shilpa Shastra – the ancient mystic science of Hindu architecture.

Jaipur is popularly known as the ‘Pink City’, because in 1883 A.D., the Maharajah of Jaipur ordered the entire city to be white washed in pink to welcome Prince Albert, the consort of Queen Victoria of England.

Ever since, all the buildings in Jaipur are pink washed.
Jaipur is a unique synthesis of modern and traditional culture.

The people here are lively.

Even today, you will meet weather beaten faces under huge colourful turbans, with unbelievably fierce moustaches and lips that are ever ready to erupt into the most charming smile.

You will meet ladies in traditional colourful Rajasthani attire.

They too will give you the million dollar smile.
Places to See
City palace

The City Palace Complex is a blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture.

Most of the buildings were built by Sawai Jai Singh II.

The present Maharajah – Brigadier Sawai Bhawani Singh – still lives in a portion of the palace. The glamorous Gayatri Devi lives in a separate palace in Jaipur.

But she spends the Indian summers in London – a practice she has followed for over forty years.

You can see a vast collection of royal costumes in the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum: Exclusive and precious Pashmina (Kashmiri) shawls, Benarasi silk saris, Sanganeri prints and folk embroidery.

You can also see the voluminous clothes worn by the voluminous Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh I (rule 1750-1768 A.D.).
You can also see well preserved ancient Rajput weapons in the adjoining Maharani’s Palace (the Queen’s Palace) – some date back to the 15th century.

They have been preserved extremely well.

You can see protective chain armour, small canons, guns, pistols, gun powder pouches, jewel embedded ivory handled swords, belt swords, poison tipped blades, and the remarkable scissor-action dagger.
Amber Fort

Amber (pronounced Amer), situated about 11 kilometres from Jaipur, was the capital of the Kachhawa rulers (ancestors of the present Maharajas) before they shifted their capital to Jaipur.
The Amber Fort, set atop picturesque hills, is a blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture.

It was constructed by Raja Man Singh I in 1592 and completed by Sawai Jai Singh I.
The Fort is made of red sand stone and white marble.

The rugged exterior hides the luxurious interior which is virtually a paradise.

The Maota Lake in front gives the fort a breathtaking view.
Jaigarh Fort
During the Mughal era, Jaipur region was a major weapon producing centre for the Mughal and Rajput rulers, several of which are on display in the fort’s museum.
The Jaigarh Fort is the most spectacular of the three hilltop forts that overlook Jaipur.

It is one of the few military structures of medieval India preserved almost intact, containing palaces, a granary, a well-planned canon foundry, several temples and a tall tower.Jaigarh Fort is also known as the Fort of Victory.
On display are a collection of canons, many of which are exquisitely decorated and were used by Raja Man Singh in his campaigns against the Mughals.

You can also see the Jai Ban (Jaivan), the largest mounted canon in the world.
Jaigarh Fort was once responsible for the security of both Jaipur and Amber.
Nahargarh Fort

Nahargarh Fort located on the rugged ridge of Aravali Hills was built by Jai Singh in 1734 and extended in 1868.
Nahargarh, which means abode of the tigers, was built to add to the defense of Amber.
The Madhavendra Bhawan, built by Sawai Ram Singh II, has a cluster of 12 identical suits for queens.

At the head is the king’s suit.

The rooms are linked by corridors and retain some delicate frescoes as well as toilets and kitchen hearths.

Hawa Mahal

This is the most photographed landmark of Jaipur.

The five-storey Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) built by the Poet king Sawai Pratap Singh is really only a facade.

It consists of 953 honeycombed sandstone windows known as ‘jharokhas’ (windows) and was originally built for ladies of the royal household to watch everyday life and processions in the city from their veiled comfort.

You can climb to the top for a wonderful view from the latticed windows.
Jantar Mantar
Sawai Jai Singh II was literally immersed in astronomy and numerology.
He constructed Jantar Mantars (observatories) in Delhi, Jaipur, Varanasi and Ujjain.
The one in Jaipur has 14 instruments and is the largest.The primitive stone instruments made by him are still functional to an astounding degree of accuracy.The sun dials give accurate time.
Ram Niwas Garden and Albert Hall.
Just outside the walled city is the sprawling Ram Niwas Garden, a place for royal recreation since the reign of Sawai Ram Singh.

The exquisitely designed garden has pools and fountains, sprawling lawns and beautiful flower beds all around.

In the middle of the garden is Albert Hall designed by Sir Swinton Jacob, a British architect who designed many palaces in Rajasthan.

You can see a rich collection of artefacts like paintings, carpets, ivory, stone and metal sculptures and colourful crystal works, etc.
Opposite the Albert Hall is one of the oldest Zoos in the country.

Chokhi Dhani (18 kilometres from Jaipur)

Chokhi Dhani which literally meaning “Fine Hamlet” is a 5 star ethenic resort – the only one of its kind in India.

There are authentic looking mud and thatch cottages, suites and conferences halls, multi-cuisine restaurant, and also traditional Rajasthani food mixed with Rajasthani welcome.
The Resort is more like a traditional village with all modern amenities rather than an hotel.It is an experience.

See Tigers in the Wild

You can take a trip to Ranthambhore National Park or Sariska Tiger Reserve.

You could see the majestic tigers, deer and other animals in the wild.
Fairs and Festivals
The Rajasthanis celebrate festivals with great enthusiasm and fervour.

Some of the more festival festivals are: Elephant Festival, Gangaur Festival, Teej and Kite Festival.

Fact File
Clothing

Summer – light tropical or cotton
Winter – woollens
Best Season to visit – October to March.

Reaching there
Air

Jaipur is well connected with all the major cities of India.
Rail

Well connected with the major cities of India.
Road

Jaipur has a very good road network.
Distances from Jaipur
Agra 236 km

Ajmer 131 km

Bharatpur 176 km

Bikaner 321 km

Bombay 1202 km

Delhi 258 km

Jaisalmer 638 km

Jodhpur 316 km

Udaipur 405 km
Recommendation

Jaipur, Agra and Delhi comprise the Golden Triangle for tourists. Jaipur is a bustling capital city and a business centre with all the trapping of a modern metropolis yet possessing an age old charm linked to kings, palaces and forts.It is also a place you could use as a centre to see a number of surrounding places.