An Indian Bureaucrat's Diary

Backdrop of Rudyard Kipling’s
Jungle Book

You can imagine the beauty and fascination of Kanha National Park by the fact that Kanha National Park was the backdrop of Rudyard Kipling’s ‘Jungle Book’.
Today, Kanha National Park is one of India’s largest and finest National Park and Tiger Reserve located in Madhya Pradesh, India.In the 1930s, Kanha was divided into two sanctuaries, Hallon and Banjar, of 250 and 300 sq. kms each.Kanha National Park was created on 1 June 1955.Today, it covers an area of 940 sq. kms in the two districts of Mandla and Balaghat.
Together with a surrounding buffer zone of 1009 sq. kms, and the neighboring 110 sq. kms Phen Sanctuary, it forms the Kanha Tiger Reserve.  

Flora

There are dense forest zones with good crown cover.
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Land of the romantic Marble Rocks
and Kipling’s Jungle Book

When you think of a romantic cruise amongst marble rocks, think of Jabalpur.
And when you think of Snooker, think of Jabalpur again, because snooker was invented here.

Overview

Jabalpur is located almost in the centre of India.
It is the first district in India which obtained the ISO-9001 certificate.
This has come into force from April 1, 2007.

The present city dates from the nineteenth century and has wide and well planned roads.
Jabalpur is famous for beautiful formations of Marble Rocks (Bhedaghat) through which flows the holy Narmada River.

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Earliest Human Settlements in India

The Bhimbetka Caves, or Bhimbetka Rock Shelters, (also known as ‘Bhim Baithaka’ meaning Bhim’s seat), located at the southern edge of the Vindhyachal Hills, 45 km south of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh, contain 15,000 year old Stone Age rock paintings – the earliest evidences of human life in India.The rock paintings, which are in remarkably good condition even today, take us on a journey into time and tell us about the lifestyle of our ancestors over a period spanning thousands of years.
Mythology

According to mythology, when the five Pandavas were banished from their kingdom, they came and stayed here in these caves. They even built a palace at Lakhajuhar made out of lac.
Bhima used the massive rocks for sitting. This is why the place is also called ‘Bhim Baithaka’. Read the rest of this entry »

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The Golden City 

Where would you go if you wanted to see sand, desert and sand dunes in India?The best place is Jaisalmer – in the middle of Thar Desert in Rajasthan.JaisalmerThe small town of Jaisalmer, nicknamed “The Golden City” – because this is what the town looks like – stands on a ridge of yellow sandstone on top of the Trikuta Hill.
It is crowned by a fort, which contains the palace buildings and beautiful Jain temples. Even today, a fourth of the population live within the Fort.
Many of the houses and temples are beautifully sculpted. 

History

According to legend, Lord Krishna told Arjuna that a remote descendent of the Yadav clan would build his kingdom on top of Trikuta Hill.

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Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

 In the first part, I gave an overview of Ladakh and took
the reader east of Leh to Changla Pass and Pangong Lake.
In the second part, I wrote about some wonderful places West of Leh.
In this part, I am writing about Khardung La, the highest motorable road in the world to the North of Leh and the unbelievably beautiful Nubra Valley beyond.
I am also writing about the beautiful Tsomoriri Lake, and Dhahanu, the Land of the purest surviving Aryans to the South of LehNubra Valley via Khardung La – The Highest Motorable road in the World (40 Kms from Leh)Nubra Valley, popularly known as Ldumra or the valley of flowers, is situated in the north of Ladakh between Read the rest of this entry »

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Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

In the first part, I gave an overview of Leh and Ladakh.
And I took the readers on a journey east of Leh – past Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Chemrey, over Changla Pass and on to the beautiful Pangong Lake.
In this second part, I will write about some wonderful places West of Leh.We will visit some of the oldest monasteries; the sangam (confluence) of Indus and Zanskar Rivers; the unique Magnetic Hill; and meet our furry friends – the Yak and Pashmina sheep.

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 Ladakh is unique.
It is unlike any other place in the world.
It really belongs to a bye gone era forgotten by time itself. Ladakh is the enigmatic land of sand and snow.
You can see snow covered mountains and sand dunes in the same place – at heights exceeding 11,500 feet (3,520 metres).
You can ride on long haired two humped camels or watch highly endangered birds and animals.
You can amble through ancient monasteries dramatically perched on high mountains and join the monks in their daily prayers or explore the mysterious corridors of old palaces.
You can indulge yourself in white water rafting or trek through the enchanting wilderness for a couple of days or more. Read the rest of this entry »

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Gateway to the Gods       

Haridwar (also called Hardwar) is a timeless, beautiful, holy city on the banks of the river Ganga or Ganges River.
The word Haridwar, meaning Gateway to the Gods, is derived from two words - ‘Dwar’ meaning Gateway and ‘Hari’ meaning God.It is here the holy Ganga enters the Indo-Gangetic plains of India after traversing 253 kms (157 miles) down the hills from its source Gaumukh at the tip of the Gangotri Glacier – 3,139 metres (10,300 ft) above sea level.

Mythology

The God and the Demons churned the oceans (Samudra Manthan) to obtain Amrita, the elixir of immortality. Amrita was deceptively taken by the Gods and carried away by Garuda – Lord Vishnu’s Vahan.
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One of the finest beaches in West India        

                    
If you are looking for a beautiful, clean, pristine sea beach, far away from the mad, mad crowd, you will love Ganpatipule.
If you have the time and the inclination, there are a number of nearby forts to explore.
And of course, the famous 400 year old Ganapati temple is a major attraction.

Location

Ganpatipule is a small village on the sea coast near Ratnagiri – 375 kms south of Mumbai.
It is not too close to Mumbai, not very well known and therefore not crowded.

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            the most popular Flavouring  in the world                                                    

If you visit tourist places in Goa and Kerala, you can visit spice gardens.
Some plantation owners have improvised their spice gardens into tourist attractions.
You can see a variety of plants where different spices come from.
The guide will answer your questions and clarify your doubts.
Your host will serve you authentic local meals in virgin surroundings and arrange a traditional dance.

Background

We Indians use a lot of spices in our daily food.
But most of us do not know where the spices come from.
Someone suggested that I should write about the spices in my blog.
So here we go.
This one on Vanilla is another in a series on Spices of India. In 2004, I was working in a city called Hubli, a small but important trading centre, in Karnataka, South India.
I was invited to visit some plantations in Sirsi about 100 kms away.
There were the usual coconut trees, areca nut (betel nut or supari), some spice trees and Vanilla vines.It was the first time I saw a Vanilla plant.
I was surprised. The plantation was heavily guarded, with high level of electronic surveillance.
I thought the owner must be under some sort of threat. But no! The security was for the Vanilla plants. The crop in Madagascar had failed. The prices of Vanilla had literally shot through the roof.
Theft, and even robbery (using armed force), had become quite common. 

History

Vanilla originated in Mexico, where the Aztecs used it to accent the flavor of chocolate drinks.
In the 16th century, the Spanish explorer Cortez, brought it to Europe.
The Aztec drink, made with Vanilla pods and cacao beans, became popular among the aristocracy in Europe.In 1602, a chemist for Queen Elizabeth I suggested that Vanilla could be used alone as a flavoring.
Today, Vanilla is the most popular flavour in the world.

The Plant                                                                                                                

The Vanilla essence comes from the long, greenish-yellow seed pods of the tropical orchid plant, Vanilla planifolia.
The plant is a creeper and climbs up on the trunks of other shady trees.
It can be easily grown on coconut trees, areca palms, other trees, even poles.
Left alone, it will climb up and up.
But growers fold the higher parts of the plant downwards to keep the height accessible by a human. This also stimulates flowering.

The flowers of the Vanilla plant are hermaphroditic – they carry both the male (anther) and female (stigma) organs. But to avoid self pollenation, a membrane separates the two organs.
In nature, the flowers can be pollinated by a bee found only in Mexico.
Therefore, in cultivation, the flowers have to be artificially pollinated.
Fortunately, the process is simple and easy.
The Vanilla flower lasts about one day, sometimes even less. Growers have to inspect their plants every day for the open flowers, a labour-intensive task.

Harvest                                                                           

·               The pods are harvested while green and immature. At this stage, they are odourless.
·              The vegetative tissue of the Vanilla pod has to be killed to prevent further growing. The killing is accomplished by sun killing, oven killing, hot water killing, killing by scratching or by freezing. In India, I have seen cultivators use hot water killing.
·               The pods are held for 7 to 10 days under hot (45º-65ºC or 115º-150ºF) and humid conditions. The pods are kept in fabric covered boxes immediately after boiling. This allows enzymes to process the compounds in the pods into vanillin and other compounds which give Vanilla its flavour.
·               To prevent rotting and to lock the aroma in the pods, the pods are dried. The pods are laid out in the sun during the mornings and returned to their boxes in the afternoons. When the moisture content is reduced to 25-30% of the pods’ weight (as compared to 60-70% before drying) the curing process is complete and the pods will exhibit their fullest aromatic qualities
·               Once fully cured, the Vanilla is sorted by quality and graded.

How to use Vanilla

There are three main commercial preparations of natural Vanilla:
·               Whole pod,
·               Powder (ground pods – pure, or blended with sugar, starch or other ingredients), and
·               Extract (in alcoholic solution – at least 35% by volume). 

Growth and prices

Till the middle of the 19th century, Mexico was the chief producer of Vanilla.
By 1898, Madagascar, Réunion, and the Comoros Islands produced 200 metric tons of Vanilla beans, about 80 percent of world production.
Due to a typhoon, the market price of Vanilla rose dramatically in the late 1970s.
The prices remained at this level till the early 1980s. In the mid-1980s, the cartel that had controlled Vanilla prices and distribution since its creation in 1930 disbanded.
Prices dropped 70 percent over the next few years, to nearly US$ 20 per kilo.
Due to the typhoon Huddah, which struck early in the year 2000,  
political instability, and poor weather for the third year in succession, Vanilla prices shot up to an astonishing US$ 500 per kilo in 2004, bringing new countries into the Vanilla industry.
It was around this time, I visited the Vanilla plantation.

A good crop and more countries starting cultivation have pushed the market price down to the $40 per kilo range in the middle of 2005. Culinary Uses

Good quality Vanilla has a strong aromatic flavour, but food with small amounts of low quality Vanilla or synthetic Vanilla – like flavourings are far more common, since true Vanilla is much more expensive.
A major use of Vanilla is in flavouring ice cream.
Natural Vanilla gives a brown or yellow colour to preparations, depending on the concentration.
The cosmetics industry uses Vanilla to make perfume. Medicinal Uses

Although its medical qualities have never been proved, Vanilla is used as an aphrodisiac and a remedy for fevers.
The essential oils of Vanilla are sometimes used in aromatherapy. 

Recommendation                                                                                                   

There is no Hindi word for Vanilla.
The term Vanilla itself has come from the Spanish word “vainilla”, meaning “little pod”.
Indonesia and China have become major producers of Vanilla. There is no reason why India should be lagging behind.Vanilla is a beautiful green creeper. It can be kept as a house plant. It requires high humidity, bright light and a good stick or pole to climb up.
It can be successfully cultivated even on roof tops in large pots with a screen cover to reduce the sunlight.   

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