An Indian Bureaucrat's Diary

Travel India Jabalpur

Land of the romantic Marble Rocks
and Kipling’s Jungle Book

When you think of a romantic cruise amongst marble rocks, think of Jabalpur.
And when you think of Snooker, think of Jabalpur again, because snooker was invented here.

Overview

Jabalpur is located almost in the centre of India.
It is the first district in India which obtained the ISO-9001 certificate.
This has come into force from April 1, 2007.

The present city dates from the nineteenth century and has wide and well planned roads.
Jabalpur is famous for beautiful formations of Marble Rocks (Bhedaghat) through which flows the holy Narmada River.

 
History

The name Jabalpur is derived from the sage Jabali.
Ashokan relics have been found at the site.
Jabalpur was the capital of the famous Tripuri Kingdom (9th–10th centuries).
In 875, it was taken over by the Kalachuri dynasty who made Jabalpur their capital.
In the 13th century, the Gonds seized Jabalpur, and made it their capital.
In the 16th century, the Gond raja of Garha-Mandla extended his power over fifty-two districts, including the present Jabalpur.

From time to time, the Mughal rulers tried to take over Jabalpur.The legendary Gond Queen Rani Durgavati died valiantly fighting the Mughal forces led by the Emperor Akbar.
However, the Kings of Garha-Mandla maintained practical independence until their subjugation by the Maratha Governor of Sagar in 1781.
In 1798, the Maratha Peshwa granted the Narmada valley to the Bhonsle princes of Nagpur, who continued to hold the district until the British defeated the Marathas, and occupied it in 1818.

Under the British Rule, Jabalpur became infamous for the Thuggee murderers.
But Jabalpur became more famous by Col. Sleeman, the Commissioner at Jabalpur, the man who suppressed thuggee.The Tripuri Congress session presided over by Subhash Chandra Bose (much against the wishes of Mahatma Gandhi) was held here in 1939.
Lokmanya Tilak launched the Jhanda Satyagraha here.

What to See

Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat (25 kms)

The famous marble rocks through which the Narmada River flows rise to a hundred feet on either side. On a full moon night, the scene is romantic.In his ‘Highlands of Central India’, Captain J. Forsyth has written about the rocks:
“The eye never wearies of the . . . effect produced by the broken and reflected sunlight, now glancing from a pinnacle of snow-white marble reared against the deep blue of the sky as from a point of silver, touching here and there with bright lights the prominence of the middle heights and again losing itself in the soft bluish grays of their recesses…..Here and there the white saccharine limestone is seamed by veins of dark green or black volcanic rock; a contrast which only enhances like a setting of jet, the purity of the surrounding marble…”

Dhuandhar

After meandering through the Marble Rocks, the Narmada River narrows down and plunges down in a magnificent waterfall known as Dhuandhar, or the smoke cascade.
The roaring sound can be heard from quite afar.

Balancing Rocks

The Balancing Rocks of Jabalpur are eroded volcanic rock formations.

Chausat Yogini (Sixty Four Lady Yogis)

Situated on a hill rock, the Chausat Yogini Temple commands a beautiful view of the Narmada River flowing through the jagged gorges of Marble Rocks in Bhedaghat.
Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this 10th century temple has exquisitely carved stone figures of deities belonging to the Kalchuri period.
According to local legend, an underground passage passes from this temple to the Gond Queen Durgavati’s palace.

Bargi Dam

This is a multipurpose project on Narmada River.
It is also a tourist attraction.
The local authorities have started a cruise boat which runs on the reservoir of Bargi Dam.

Rani Durgavati Memorial and Museum

This memorial and a museum dedicated to the great Queen Durgavati houses a fine collection of Sculptures, Inscriptions and Prehistoric Relics.

Kanha National Park

Jabalpur is the entry point to Kanha National Park – one of the biggest national parks in India.
Kanha National Park has successfully implemented the Project Tiger program in India.
This Park is also the birth place of the ‘Jungle Book’ by Rudyard Kipling.

Bandhavgarh and Pench National Reserve Forests

Bandhavgarh and Pench National Reserve Forests are close by, and well connected by road.

Madan Mahal Fort

This Fort was built by the Gond ruler Raja Madan Shah in 1116 – on top of a rocky hill.
The Fort gives a panoramic view of the town and the country side around it.

Sangram Sagar and Bajnamath

These medieval constructions were built by the famous Gond King Sangram Shah between 1480-1540.


Snooker

Billiards was a popular activity amongst British army officers stationed in India.
Colonel Sir Neville Chamberlain (no relation to the World War II Prime Minister) conceived the game in of Snooker in the British Army Officer’s Mess in Jabalpur in 1875. Recommendation

A boat ride through the Marble Rocks, a beautiful 3 kms long gorge which narrows down to a width of 10 meters, especially on a full moon night, is a unique experience.
Jabalpur is also an entry point to three major National Forests of India.