Earliest Human Settlements in India

The Bhimbetka Caves, or Bhimbetka Rock Shelters, (also known as ‘Bhim Baithaka’ meaning Bhim’s seat), located at the southern edge of the Vindhyachal Hills, 45 km south of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh, contain 15,000 year old Stone Age rock paintings – the earliest evidences of human life in India.The rock paintings, which are in remarkably good condition even today, take us on a journey into time and tell us about the lifestyle of our ancestors over a period spanning thousands of years.
Mythology

According to mythology, when the five Pandavas were banished from their kingdom, they came and stayed here in these caves. They even built a palace at Lakhajuhar made out of lac.
Bhima used the massive rocks for sitting. This is why the place is also called ‘Bhim Baithaka’.

Discovery

Based on information gathered from local adivasis (tribals), Bhimbetka was first mentioned in Indian archeological records in 1888 as a Buddhist site.
In 1957, Dr. V. S. Wakankar, an archaeologist from Vikram University, Ujjain stumbled upon these rock formations. They were similar to those he had seen in Spain and France.
Archaeological excavations over the next 16 years yielded more than 700 such shelters dating from the Lower Palaeolithic Age to the Early Medieval Age.
The site spread over 10 kms in length and about 3 kms in width has more than 700 rock shelters, of which more than 400 have paintings. But only about a dozen caves are open to tourists.


Rock Art and Paintings

Over thousands of years, the caves evolved into excellent rock-shelters – ideal sites for aboriginal settlements – highly secluded and safe atop the mountains.
The rock shelters and caves of Bhimbetka have a large number of interesting paintings which depict the lives and times of the people who lived in the caves, including depictions of animals, communal dancing and drinking, birth, death and religious rites.Archeological studies have revealed a continuous sequence of Stone Age cultures (from the Lower Palaeolithic to the Medieval), as well as the world’s oldest stone walls and floors.

A broad chronology of the finds has been done, but a detailed chronology is yet to be created.

The paintings have been done mainly in red and white with occasional use of green and yellow.
We get an insight of the life style during those days.The superimposition of paintings shows that the same canvas was used by different people at different periods of time.Archeologists have classified the drawings and paintings under five broad periods.

Period 1 – (Upper Paleolithic): These are linear representations, in green and dark red, of huge figures of animals, such as boar, bison, tigers, rhinoceroses and stick like humans.

Period II – (Mesolithic): These figures are comparatively smaller in size.
The stylised figures show linear decorations on the body.
In addition to animals, there are human figures and hunting scenes, giving a clear picture of the weapons used – barbed spears, pointed sticks, bows and arrows.
There are depictions of birds, animals, drinking, musical instruments, communal dances, pregnant women, mother and child, and men carrying dead.

Period III – (Chalcolithic): Similar to the paintings of Chalcolithic pottery, these paintings reveal that during the period, the cave dwellers of this area were in contact with the agricultural communities of the Malwa plains and exchanged goods with them.

Period IV – (Early Historic):
The figures of this group have a schematic and decorative style and are painted mainly in red, white and rarely green.
There is association of riders, depiction of religious symbols, Tunic-like dresses and scripts of different periods.

Period V – (Medieval): These paintings are geometric, linear and more schematic, but show degeneration and crudeness in their artistic style.
For the first time, we find paintings of the Brahmanical Hindu Gods like Ganesh and Natraja in these rock shelters.

The cave dwellers prepared the pigments they used by combining manganese, haematite, soft red stone, wood coal and plants. They made brushes out of pieces of fibrous plants.It is amazing that the paintings have not faded even after thousands of years.

What to see

The caves vary in sizes. 
Some are very small while some can accommodate 100 people. The cave formations are unique.
One cave resembles the shape of a tortoise and the entrance resembles the mouth of a snake.You must visit the Zoo Rock Cave, which is the most famous of the caves.
These rocks have painting as old as 10,000 B.C. depicting various animals like elephants, antelopes and horses.You must visit Barkhera (7 kms from Bhimbetka).
This is Richest Open Air Stone Age Site in South Asia.
You can see Thousands of Acheulian Tools Scattered in the dense teak forest.
How to Reach

Air

Bhopal (45 Kms from Bhimbetka) is the nearest airport having direct flights from Mumbai, Delhi, Indore and Gwalior.

Rail

Bhopal has a railway station with trains from Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai.

Road Bhimbetka is situated on the Bhopal-Hoshangabad National Highway No. 69.
It is well connected by good roads.

Best Season

July to March.

Recommendation

This is a must see place for everyone.
Nature has carefully preserved these clusters of natural rock shelters within massive outcrops of sandstone, above dense forests.
The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters are unique because the paintings and tools allow us to see the pattern of life over thousands of years.
They show the gradual transformation of man from a cave dweller to agriculturist and trader.
They also graphically depict the evolution of tools.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters bear a significant resemblance to similar rock art sites in other parts of the world –  Kakadu National Park in Australia, the cave paintings of the Bushmen in Kalahari Desert, and the Upper Paleolithic Lascaux cave paintings in France.

The Bhimbetka Rock Shelters were recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2002.

You can see more details and information at the following site:
http://asi.nic.in/asi_monu_whs_rockart_bhimbetka.asp

Enigmatic land of Sand and Snow

In the first part, I gave an overview of Leh and Ladakh.
And I took the readers on a journey east of Leh – past Shey, Thiksey, Hemis and Chemrey, over Changla Pass and on to the beautiful Pangong Lake.
In this second part, I will write about some wonderful places West of Leh.We will visit some of the oldest monasteries; the sangam (confluence) of Indus and Zanskar Rivers; the unique Magnetic Hill; and meet our furry friends – the Yak and Pashmina sheep.

Original Religion of Ladakh

I was curious to know what was the religion of Ladhak before Buddhism.
The original religion of Ladakh (and also Tibet) was Bon founded by Tönpa Shenrab or gShen-rab mi-bo (also known as Buddha Shenrab, Guru Shenrab, Tonpa Shenrab Miwoche, Lord Shenrab Miwo and other titles). gShenrab mi-bo is the founder of the Bön religion and occupies a position very similar to that of Śākyamuni in Buddhism.
Like the Buddha Shakyamuni, Tönpa Shenrab was of royal birth.
Tönpa Shenrab left his royal inheritance at the age of 31, to follow the path of enlightenment.
Tönpa Shenrab embraced the life of a renunciate and commenced austerities, spreading the dharma in the land of Zhangzhung near what is believed to be Mount Kailash. But we have no reliable sources to establish his historicity, his dates, his racial origin, his activities, and the authenticity of the enormous number of books attributed either directly to him or believed to be his word.
The latter, the Bonpo say, were written down after his death in much the same way as the Buddhist scriptures were assembled.
No pre-10th century materials are available which could throw light on activities such as his visit to Tibet.

A new wave of Buddhism entered Ladakh when the reformist sect of the Gelugpa created by Tsongkhapa led to the reestablishment of monasteries in the 15th century.
Most of the old shrines of the earlier Bon religion were converted into Buddhist monasteries.

 
Lamayuru Monastery (125 Kms west of Leh)

This is the oldest and most spectacularly set monastery built in the 10th century by Rinchen Zangpo at the request of the King of Ladakh.But Lamayuru has a more historic pre-Buddhist, Bon history, and is one of the oldest religious sites in Ladakh.
Its real name is Yungdrung, signifying swastika.

Also known as Tharpa Ling or “Place of Freedom”, the Lamayuru Monastery is considered a sanctuary, even for criminals; and is guarded by an 11-headed, 1000-eyed image of Chenrezi, the Buddha of Compassion.

The Yak and the Pashmina Sheep
In the village below Lamayuru Monastery, we found some Pashmina sheep who give the finest wool.

We also saw the Yak.
Today, no Yak survive in the wild in Ladakh.
All the existing ones are domesticated ones.
I asked the driver how much milk the Yak gives.
He answered the Yak does not give milk.
The reason is the word Yak is used for the male of the species.

Hills of Different ColoursWhen you drive from Leh towards Lamayuru, you cross barren hills.
The colours of the hills are remarkably different.
Snow White. Blues. Pinks and Mauves.

You pass through Orchards of Apricots.

You also travel along the crystal clear Indus River gurgling on its long journey.
 

Nimu – Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers (17 Kms from Leh)

The Zanskar river merges into the Indus at this beautiful and scenic spot.

Magnetic Hill (30 kms from Leh)This is a unique place.
It defies the law of gravity.
A vehicle parked in neutral gear on the metallic road here actually slides up the hill.
The locals told me that some scientists wanted to do some testing but permission was refused.

Lekir Monastery (52 Kms from Leh)

Likir was built more than 500 years ago during the reign of Lachen Gyalpo and in those days, it housed more than 600 monks.
The monks of Likir were the caretakers of Alchi.
The head Lama today is the younger brother of H.H. the Dalai Lama, although he is not in residence.Likir used to house images and Thankas that surpassed those at Alchi.
Many of the old treasures and much of the old structure was destroyed in a fire.
Most of the present buildings date from the 18th century.
The Monastery has a small, but interesting, museum.

Alchi Monastery (70 Kms from Leh)

Alchi Monastery is the only monastery in Ladakh built on flat ground.
The Monastery contains three 3-story high statues of the Bodhisatvas.
One of the largest and most famous of all monasteries, Alchi was built by the great translator Ringchem Zangpo in the 11th century which accounts for the Kashmiri-Hindu influence in the wooden carvings on the doors, ceiling designs and murals..

In the next part – Leh III, I will write about some more interesting places.
 

The World Heritage Site nearest to Mumbai

The Elephanta Caves contain the most striking collection of rock-art statues, sculptures and reliefs panels in India.
They contain the most exquisite works of art skillfully hewn out of basaltic mountains.

They are comparable to the works of Ellora.
It is quite possible that the Elephanta and Ellora caves were built by the same artists.

 History


We have not been able to determine the precise period of construction.

There is mention of the Elephanta Caves in the Aihole (Karnataka) inscriptions of King Pulkesin II of Chalukya dynasty.

In the inscriptions, Elephanta Island has been described as Puri.
Later, the island came to be known as Gharapuri – the Place of Caves.

Some historians say that the great warrior King Pulkesin II raised the shrine to celebrate his victory.
Other historians suggest that these caves were built much earlier – in the 6th century A.D. – by the Kalchuri King Krishnaraja.
But we do know that during different periods of time, different dynasties ruled over this little island.

The Konkan-Mauryas, Trikutakas, Chalukyas of Badami, Silaharas, Rashtrakutas, Kalyani Chalukyas, Yadavas of Deogiri, Muslim rulers of Ahmedabad and the Portuguese.
The Marathas also ruled over this island. From them, the island passed over to the British.

When the Portuguese came, they found a large monolithic stone elephant at the place where they landed so they named the island Ilha do Elephanta, island of the elephant, or Elephanta Island.
The elephant statue collapsed in 1814.

The British removed it to the Victoria Gardens (Mumbai’s zoo – now renamed Jijamata Garden) and reassembled it there.
Even today, the monolith stands guard at the entrance of the zoo.

The Portuguese also found a stone horse.
But we do not know what happened to it.
It has simply vanished.

The Portuguese built a fort on the island with a watch tower.
And they used the caves for target practice, damaging most of the beautiful statues – intentionally, or due to sheer rashlessness, we do not know.

The Magnificent Caves

A flight of about a hundred steps, from the ferry landing, take you to the two groups of caves. Towards the east, Stupa Hill (named because of a small brick Buddhist monument on the top) contains two caves, one of which is unfinished, and several water cisterns.

Towards the west is the larger group of five rock-cut caves containing Hindu shrines.
The main cave is famous for its carvings of Shiva, in various forms,
performing different actions.
The cave consists of a square mandapa whose sides measure 27 metres each.
The interior is divided into smaller areas by rows of pillars, columns, supports and arches.

The whole structure, meticulously carved out of basaltic rocks, closely resembles a cemented stone building.

At the entrance to the caves is the 20 feet high Trimurti (three faced statue), the world famous trinity of Elephanta – depicting Lord Brahma the Creator, Lord Vishnu the Preserver and Lord Shiva the Destroyer.
In a chapel on the right of the entrance is a huge Shiva Linga (the phallic form of Lord Shiva). The chapel has four doors, each guarded by colossal figures of dwarapala, or temple guards.

There are 15 beautiful relief panels depicting – Ardha Nari Ishwara (Lord Shiva in half male and half female form), Shiva receiving the waters of the Ganges, marriage of Shiva to Parvati, Shiva killing the devil Andhaka, etc.

The Elephanta Festival

The Elephanta Festival is organised on Elephanta Island in February every year.
Renowned dancers and musicians perform outside the Caves, under the open star-studded sky.
This is an event eagerly awaited by lovers of art and culture.

Scenic Beauty

The place is very beautiful.
You can walk around the island. You can climb the hills.
There is also the Cannon Hill with a rusty canon which was used by the Portuguese to drive off pirates.

Reaching there

Elephanta Caves are located on Elephanta Island – a small island (7 square kilometers in area) – 7 kms. off the shore of Mumbai.
You can reach the Island only by boat (11 kms).
The journey is enjoyable.

There are regular ferry services from the Gateway of India to the Elephanta Island and back. Boats usually leave every 10 or 15 minutes from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.
You can even hire your own boat.
During the monsoons, the sea becomes very rough and the journey dangerous.
Ordinary boat services are usually suspended.

Accomodation

There is no place for overnight stay on the island.
So you have to go in the morning and return back at night.

Recommendation

UNESCO has included Elephanta Caves in its World Heritage Site in 1987.
If you visit Mumbai, this is one place you should not miss.
I am sure you will feel cosmic vibrations in the caves.